Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery Revisited

What do Big Foot (Big Foot), Nikola Tesla (Tesla) and the Smith-Madrone Winery's long awaited SMITH-MADRONE COOK'S FLAT RESERVE (Reserve) have in common?  Read on, for our inside report on this.  Then visit Smith-Madrone with your hidden video camera to see for yourself.



"We are all mortal until the first kiss or
the second glass of wine."


Smith-Madrone Winery was founded in 1971 by Stuart Smith, who is the managing partner, vineyard manager, and enologist.  His brother, Charles F. Smith III, is the winemaker.  The two brothers performed a very Jungian feat Jung's self-made stone house by building the winery themselves from stones and wood on their property.  Their first vintage was in 1977.  I think of the Smith Brothers as two pleasant wine-wizards disguised as mountain men who have spent years of their life up on Spring Mountain seeking the holy grail of great wine, the Smith-Madrone Reserve. And, like the great scientist Tesla, they conduct all sorts of strange experiments with growing and producing wine, not superstitious things like burying cattle horns a la Steiner and his Biodynamic, Theosophical, Antropological, Illogical, Supersitious Twitterings, but scientific things, perhaps not like Tesla's electrical experiment with lightening bolts, but things just as clever and eccentric.  How else can any rational person explain their wonderful wines and their unbelievably, mouthwatering, to-die-for, fantastic  new Smith-Madrone 2007 Cook's Flat Reserve ?



The part of the lab they let you see.


Smith-Madrone vineyard is up on Spring Mountain, just west of the town of St. Helena in Napa Valley and sits at elevations between 1,3000 and 2,000 feet on mountainous hillsides that slope as much as 35%.  The soils are well drained but very complex. There is no way I can paraphrase this, so let me quote from the Smith-Madrone website something that sounds like it was written by a famous scientist such as Tesla. "The underlying geology is the Franciscan Assemblage, unique to California coastal ranges, which includes altered mafic volcanic rocks, deep-sea radiolarian cherts, sandstones, limestones, serpentines, shales and highly pressured metamorphic rocks, all of them faulted and mixed in a seemingly chaotic manner as a result of tectonic plate activity." (Translations welcome.)


Just a diversion from their mysterious cellar.


Although there was no vineyard on the 200 acre ranch when the Smith brothers arrived, they did find old grape stakes and evidence that there had been a vineyard there between the 1880s and Prohibition. The estate had previously been planted with grapes by George W. Cook who purchased the land in 1884. He used Chinese laborers to clear the land back then and there are still the remains of a covered wagon on one of the old roads near the estate that connects them with Stony Hill Vineyards to the east. Madrone in the winery name refers to the evergreen Madrone trees that are on the ranch. They also have twenty-two olive trees that are over 120 years old. On my next visit I plan to ask them why they are not named "Smith-Olive Winery and Vineyards," or, better yet, "Smith-Olive-Tesla Winery, Vineyards and Secret Cellar."




Possible Big Foot (Yeti) burial grounds

The entire estate is dry farmed (farmed without irrigation or water.)  Eastern exposed slopes are used for Riesling, southern and western slopes have Cabernet Sauvignon and the coolest, most north facing vineyards have Chardonnay.  The initial grapes were planted on their own rootstock. They produce about 4,000 cases a year from their 34 acres of cultivated land.  After an unsuccessful attempt to produce Pinot Noir they abandoned the varietal and in 1989 they grafted Chardonnay grapes on to the rootstock for the PN and no longer grow that varietal.  Was the Chardonnay grafted to Pinot Noir rootstock?  Another question to ask when I revisit them. 6.25 acres are devoted to Riesling, 10.25 to Chardonnay, 13 to Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.75 to Merlot and one acre to Cabernet Franc.  They use barrel fermentation, sur lie aging, open top fermentations, and other winemaking techniques that require much hand labor.  They also may or may not employ the scientific genius of the famous scientist,Tesla, in their endeavors.

What I love about  Smith-Madrone Winery is that they are totally genuine, the real thing, if you will.  Honest, no pretensions, devoted to truth in a down to earth way that is not just admirable but inspiring.  They also happen to make great wines, very unique with their own terroir, extremely well priced, etc.  Their wines compare to the best in the world and the owners seem like some of the finest people in the world.  I think of Smith-Madrone as a triumph of the human spirit.  Meeting people like this and tasting wine like this are part of what makes life worthwhile.  Inspiring is an understatement.

Here is Smith-Madrone Winery Revisited.  The best Western hemisphere Riesling I ever tasted was grown and produced by this winery, the Smith-Madrone 2010 Riesling.  One of my all time favorite Cabernet Sauvignons was made by them, the 2005 Smith-Madrone Cabernet.  (To which I can now add their 2007 and the unbelievable Reserve.) They also made a very good 2008 Chardonnays and a my current favorite Napa Valley Chardonnay, the Smith-Madrone 2010 Chardonnay. Recently when we wanted to visit them just to purchase more wines, they welcomed us and offered us some tastings.  I did not have my notebook and was not prepared to taste or take notes, so I can't offer detailed tasting notes this time.  All I can do is relate to you what I remember to the best of my ability without notes.

First, Smith-Madrone now has a Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.  It is the Smith-Madrone 2007 Cook's Flat Reserve.  Smith-Madrone is one of the older wineries in Napa Valley, but they have never released a reserve before.  Never mind that their regular releases blow away many reserves from other wineries.  The Smith Brothers have integrity that is amazing. After careful investigation and years of research, they finally came up with the best block of their vineyard, combined with the ideal year and the utmost in vineyard management, harvesting and winemaking.  Only 171 cases of this reserve were produced.  It is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc from the 2007 vintage of a single vineyard plot at about 1800 feet elevation.  The 8 acre block is called Cook's Flat.  There are rumors that Cook's Flat is also a Big Foot burial grounds, but we were unable to confirm this.

To quote from their webpage, "The Cook's Flat Reserve represents the very best of which we are capable in a given year.  It can only be made in small quantities and will only be available when warranted by superior quality.  It is the ultimate distillation of our experience and expertise." It was aged in French oak for two years and then bottled and stored for another three years prior to release.  Retail is $200, and you will have to obtain it directly from the winery. Their new reserve is superb, big but balanced, with some very interesting Cabernet Franc adding its signature. Although it has great fruit, it is definitely terroir driven; unique, complex and interesting; it could not have been made anywhere else than on Spring Mountain at Smith-Madrone Winery on the Big Foot burial grounds.  The Smith-Madrone 2007 Cook's Flat Reserve is an incredible wine!

The Smith-Madrone 2010 Chardonnay ($30) is exceptional in every way and now my favorite Napa Valley Chardonnay.  Somehow I missed tasting their 2009 Chardonnay but did have the 2008, which I liked.  But the 2010 is much better, more complex, not as austere, with incredible varietal fruit.  I look forward to savoring a bottle and adding some detailed tasting notes.

The Smith-Madrone 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) is much more approachable now than their 2005 was when I had several bottles early in 2012. (How did I miss tasting the 2006?)  The 2005 was a big, powerful mountain wine that needed to be paired with food to be fully appreciated. Twenty years in the cellar would do it good.  Heck, it might handle 100 years. The 2007 has much more finesse, more typical of the great 2007 vintage in Napa Valley.  Again, I look forward to sitting down and drinking some while taking tasting notes.  It is very different than the 2005, but I like it just as well, probably even better.  Here is my comment on the 2005 Cabernet attached as an addendum at the bottom of our report from our last visit: 2005 Cab

In my eagerness to taste the new reserve, the 2007 Cab release and the new Chardonnay, I neglected to try the Smith-Madrone 2011 Riesling ($27), but will add tasting notes after I try some. The Smith-Madrone 2010 Riesling was simply amazing.  Please see my review here:  A Riesling to die for

While we were there, Charlie happened to be experimenting with some old wines that he found in their mysterious basement cellar which frequently floods.  (I don't know, but I suspect they have secret scientific experimental equipment down there and possibly a resident Big Foot.)  Anyhow Charlie found some of their really old Chardonnay and noticed that one year had not turned brown.  This was the 1984 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay.  He offered us a glass and this nearly 30 year old wine stored in a flooded cellar with Big Foot hairs, tasted wonderful.  So how does one really old Chardonnay taste great and others not quite as old are undrinkable?  That is where I came up with my Tesla hypothesis.  I don't know if it is an actual time travel machine they have but they have some strange scientific equipment that can make a 30 year old Chardonnay still taste great.  Maybe it is a machine that produces effects like the fountain of youth.  Maybe that is why a Big Foot lives there.  Perhaps the Big Foot is Tesla in disguise and he is in on all of this with them.  Is this why everybody knows the name Thomas Edison, but relatively few know about Tesla, an even greater inventor and genius?  Maybe he just disappeared up on Spring Mountain and has been busy helping Stu and Charlie.  And now the three of them have finally come up with the Smith-Madrone 2007 Cook's Flat Reserve.  Whatever the true story, we will probably never know.  But they are definitely working some scientific magic of-the-wine-making-kind.  To come up with such wonderful wine, and this great new Reserve is proof enough for me.  Oh yeah, and like Big Foot, the Smith-Madrone Reserve is one of those mythical creatures we have heard about, but most of us have never seen. But I can now attest to the actual existence of a Smith-Madrone Reserve.  Big Foot is next.

I'm sorry I did not have my notebook to take tasting notes during our visit, but I will add them at a later date after I taste some of the bottles we purchased.  Other people's tasting notes are pretty boring, however, so why don't you just go up there yourself?  Your own notes will be more interesting, and nobody knows your individual tastes better than you do.  Besides, you haven't lived if you love wine and have not yet visited Smith-Madrone Winery.  Put it on your "bucket list." As with all Spring Mountain wineries, tours and tastings require a reservation. They are gratis, however, and are always conducted by one of the Smith brothers and their dog.  Ask them if you can see their secret cellar.  That will spook them.  And ask them what that big hairy thing was that darted away as you were driving in.  Hell, tell them you saw some lightening bolts shooting up from their building and that will really freak them out.  Just don't tell them that I sent you.  I think they are on to me.

Addendum Flash Release:  Charlie Smith confessed today that reports of a hairy beast inhabiting the Smith-Madrone Winery cellar are, in fact, true.  Stu recently went on a trip to Montana.  Some people go there to hunt elk, but Stu had gone there to rescue an elk calf. He was too embarrassed to tell people that he had fallen for the eyes of a young elk, so he hid it in the cellar, letting it out to graze at night.  Charlie found out about it but is keeping it a secret to help Stu save face.  When asked about the great scientist Tesla also living there, Charlie replied, "No comment."  We don't know if this story by Charlie is true or if it is a coverup for harboring a Big Foot or for providing a hideout for a famous scientist whom most people think is deceased.  It could even be that the elk calf shares its quarters with Big Foot and Tesla.

Our first visit to Smith-Madrone may be viewed here:  Smith-Madrone
Here is a special review of their Riesling:  Riesling
 

4022 Spring Mountain Rd
Saint Helena, CA 94574
Phone: (707) 963-2283
Date of visit: December 12, 2012

Groth Vineyards and Winery


You will find some really great Cabernet Sauvignon here at Groth. Groth Vineyards and Winery was founded by Dennis and Judy Groth in 1982.  They became famous for their Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon after Robert Parker awarded their 1985 Reserve a perfect 100 points.  It was the first time Parker awarded a perfect score to any California wine.  Even today Wine Enthusiast magazine designated the 2009 Groth Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon as one of the "Best of the Year 2012," referring to it as "incredibly lush and delicious."  Nick Webb at WineSpeak USA recently named the Groth 2008 Reserve Cabernet as his blog's "Wine of the Year," stating that it "is an unforgettable, regal wine that electrifies the senses and does the highly lauded Oakville AVA proud." WineSpeak USA


Groth winery building


Groth's reserve block of Cabs was replanted in 1999, so they did not have a Reserve Cabernet again until 2005 after the vines matured.  In 2006 they rebuilt their barrel cellars, crush and fermentation areas.  The winery building is a very distinctive landmark in Napa that reminds me somewhat of the Hawaiian Pink Palace.  Groth owns 121 acres of vineyards in Oakville and 44 acres in Yountville and produced about 60,000 cases of wine in 2012, with about half of that being their Sauvignon Blanc, making it a medium size family winery. Tasting is by appointment only which may be obtained over the Internet or by phone.  If you do visit them, you will have the option of a tour and tasting or just a tasting.  If you take the tour you will be able to visit the "insectary" garden planted in 2007 that hosts all sorts of beneficial insects.  A brochure identifies the 44 different species of plants and mentions the various beneficial insects that they try to encourage as part of their sustainable farming.

Fountain

Our tasting began with the Groth 2011 Sauvignon Blanc ($17.)  It is made with 7% Semillon and about 35,000 to 40,000 cases a year are produced, representing half the production of the winry.  Although the SB has sold out at the winery, you should be able to find bottles at Safeway, Costco or other major retailers.  After a pleasant nose of mostly melon, I got more melon with a little grapefruit on the palate.  The Semillon seemed to round it out, and I liked the balance.  Eric Asimov of the New York times in July 2011 listed the Groth 2010 as the favorite in their group's tasting of twenty Sauvignon Blancs.  "Among the 20 bottles in the tasting, we certainly had our favorites, like our No. 1, the 2010 Groth from Napa Valley, which, with its liveliness and balance, pleased all of us."  New York Times

Groth tasting room

The Groth 2010 Chardonnay ($29) can also be found at many major retailers.  This one has no malolatic conversion and sees 25% new French oak with sur lie aging.  It had a very pleasant nose On the palate I got a smooth, creamy palate of tropical fruit and toasted oak with a smooth, medium length finish. Although it has plenty of fruit, it is lighter bodied than many Napa Chards. About 3,000 to 4,000 cases are produced each year.  Both whites were pleasant, easy to drink and well worth the price, but did not seem to aspire to the heights of their Cabs.

Groth barrel room

Groth Cabs, especially the Reserve, seem geared to discriminating persons who really know and appreciate serious wines. We started out with the Groth Oakville 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon that sells for $50. It is made with 20% Merlot and sees 65% new French oak. This one has a very nice aroma. On the palate it is dry but big in flavor, with rich red cherry and well integrated tannins. The wine goes down smoothly with some earthiness and a medium length finish. It is very drinkable now and does need of years of cellaring to be appreciated.


Groth from across the vineyard.

Our last tasting was the Groth Reserve 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon that sells at $125.  This was an outstanding Cab.  It had a nice aroma followed by a full, lush mouthfeel of cherries and blackberries with a touch of spice.  It had great, very well integrated tannins with pleasant toasted oak, along with a good finish.  I found myself taking very small sips and not wanting to swallow because it had such a pleasant mouthfeel.  I asked how the 2008 compared with this 2009 and was told that the 2008 was slightly better, not because of the vintage but because it had an extra year of aging.  The Reserve should cellar very well but it is so enticing to drink now that it would be difficult to lay any away

Entry sign


Groth wines are widely available in grocery and other stores in case you cannot visit the winery.  If you do visit Napa Valley, however, we highly recommend a visit to Groth Vineyards and Winery.

750 Oakville Cross Road
Oakville, CA 94562

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Elyse Winery and Jacob Franklin

Elyse Winery is a small family winery that offers some exceptionally good, carefully crafted wines at very reasonable prices.  Although they are well known for their wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, they also offer some outstanding Sirahs, Petite Sirahs and Rhone style blends.  An appointment is required prior to any visit.

Elyse Wines began in 1987 when Ray and Nancy Coursen produced 286 cases of Zinfandel from the Morisoli Vineyard, naming the wine, Elyse, after  their daughter.  After ten years of producing wine at custom crush facilities, they purchased a small winery and vineyard on Hoffman Lane in 1997, their current home.  In 1998 they started another label named after their son Jacob Franklin.  Because of the very small production, the Jacob Franklin wines are available only at the winery. We were informed by our wine host that total production at the facility for both labels is around 8500 cases a year.


Entry sign

Elyse's and Jacob Franklin's own estates wines are from Hoffman Lane Vineyard, but they also source grapes from Morisoli and Tietjen Vineyards in Rutherford Bench, Black Sears on Howell Mountain, Hudson in Carneros, Chavez-Leeds in northern Rutherford, Hayne and Korte Ranch in St. Helena, Smith in Sonoma and Naggiar in the Sierra foothills.  As with most small, family wineries, reservations are required but easily obtained by phone.  There is a sign in front of the winery alerting visitors to this and this is clearly stated on their web page.  The winery is on Hoffman Lane, about a half mile West of Highway 29 just South of the Yountville Veterans Home. The winery is still technically in Napa, although only a few yards from Yountville, but their vineyard is considered to be in the Yountville District.


Elyse tasting building

Elyse Winery has made as many as 27 different wines with 16 being currently available on their website, 12 Elyse and 4 Jacob Franklin.  Surprisingly for such a small winery, they do actually offer their own baseball cap, logo glass and corkscrew, but the lovely decanter with their name on it, from which you will be served some wine, is not for sale, so you need not ask.  Prices for their wines are very reasonable for Napa Valley, ranging from $28 to $70, with nine of them under $40.


Elyse tasting bar

Our tasting included seven wines, beginning with the Elyse 2010 Chardonnay Sonoma Valley (Dry Creek)  ($32).  This was aged in 100% French oak, with 30% being new oak, all sur lie with no malolatic conversion.  It was crisp and very dry, with more minerality than usual for a Napa Valley Chardonnay.  Medium bodied with mostly apple and white peach on the palate, it was quite nice for the price and should pair well with seafood and other dishes.

Next was the Elyse 2007 Hudson Vineyard  Le Corbeau ($37), a 90% Grenache 10% Syrah blend.  'Le Corbeau" means the raven.  20% was in new French oak for 22 months.  581 cases were produced. It had a very pleasant nose of cherry and plum.  On the palate it was drier and less overtly fruity than some Grenaches, offering more complexity, good acid, pepper and spice with a medium plus length finish.  It is more French like than most California Grenaches and was very nice alone but should also pair well with food. 

This was followed by the Elyse 2008 Napa Valley Syrah ($32). It is 90% Syrah with the addition of 10% Petite Sirah.  Only 444 cases were produced. Although full bodied with plenty of nice fruit, this is not one of those Sirah (Shiraz) fruit bombs.  After a pleasant raspberry and red cherry nose, I got some raspberry, spices and pepper on the palate.  An interesting and well balanced Syrah, it should pair very well with a variety of dishes, including barbeques and pastas.

Next in line was the Elyse 2008 Zinfandel Morisoli Vineyard ($37) which is 87% Zinfandel with the other 13% coming from Alicante, Bouschet, Carignane, Durif, Grand Noir, Muscat Hamburg, Negrette, Syran and Valdiguie.  This saw 10 1/2 months in American oak with 25% of it new oak. 2,077 cases were produced. The Zinfandel grapes are from older vines in Rutherford.  It was more subtle than most Zinfandels, definitely not high octane or overly fruit forward as some Zins can be.  I got a some pepper and spices on the nose, which I always welcome in a Zin, with mostly plum, blackberry and black pepper on the palate.  The fruit was more interesting than overbearing and the wine was remarkably dry for having so much fruit.  Finish was moderate length.  This is more complex and interesting than most Zins and I'd love to sit down with a bottle for more careful tasting.  Highly recommended!

Cabs were up next, beginning with the Jacob Franklin 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Hoffman Lane ($64) from their own estate vineyard and then proceeding to the Elyse 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Morisoli Vineyard .  ($70)  The Jacob Franklin is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and was aged for 22 months in French oak with 70% being new oak.  Only 320 cases were produced. The Elyse Morisoli is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot and was aged for 30 months in French oak with 60% of this new oak. 1,190 cases were produced. The Jacob Franklin was lighter in color, more of a deep red than dark purple, with good nose of plum, cherry and baking spices. On the palate it was very smooth with soft tannins and plenty of fruit, all well balanced with mostly cherry, toast and spices followed by a medium plus length finish. It was a lovely Cab that is quite drinkable now, but I slightly preferred the more intense Elyse Cab with its deep, dark purple color, even more pronounced nose and very full bodied, but balanced, black cherry, blackberry and black currant on the palate.  The finish on the Elyse was long and complex. This was a powerful, highly structured but beautifully balanced Cab that should be decanted prior to tasting.  It will cellar very well.  The Elyse Cab was my favorite of the wines we sampled, although I enjoyed all of them as did my friend.

The tasting ended with the Jacob Franklin 2009 Petite Sirah Chavez-Leeds Vineyard  ($45).  Chavez-Leeds Vineyard is in Rutherford. It is 100% Petite Sirah and saw 10 1/2 months in American oak with 66% of this new oak.  Only 286 cases were produced. Very dark purple with a light aroma. I got mostly red plum, cherry and pepper on the palate, along with nicely integrated tannins and a medium length finish. This was not one of those big, tannic, overpowering rustic Petite Sirahs, but was more mannerly, despite still being full bodied. If you don't usually like Petite Sirahs, you should try this one. Both of us really liked it. Although it is very drinkable right now it should age well.
 

Elyse grounds

We enjoyed all the wines we tasted at Elyse Winery and were delighted at some of the prices.  Our host was friendly and helpful while the setting was quiet and quaint.  If you like Rutherford Cabs, Zins, Petite Sirahs, or Rhone style reds that are reasonably priced for the quality, you will certainly want to visit this small family winery.  We are glad that we did and we look forward to a return visit. 

2100 Hoffman Lane
Napa, CA 94558
707-944-2900
Date of visit: December 5, 2012