Entry sign |
Founded in 1979 by Thornton Boswell, under the direction of
Andre Tchelistcheff, their first production was a Napa Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon. In 1997 Susan and RT Boswell
expanded the vineyard to hillside organically grown plantings. Susan also designed their wine caves that are
65 feet below the surface. The 11,000
square foot cave was designed to be used without any additional energy use. A
separate winery, Jacquelynn Wines, began production in 2002, under direction of
Josh and Jacquelynn Peeples. The two
labels have the same winemaker, Russell Bevan, but other staff are
separate. There is no "second
label"; the wines are of comparable quality and production of both labels
are intended to complement each. In 2007
they were the first certified Napa Green Winery. As with many smaller wineries, reservations are required.
Gated entry drive |
Next to the beautiful stone building, designed by RT
Boswell, are the wine caves, with all of the production equipment, fermenting
and storage barrels and the tasting room.
Four thousand years ago the area was an obsidian arrowhead manufacturing
site and some of this obsidian was used for the floor that leads to the wine
cave. After a very personal and highly
informative tour of the wine cave, we were given an overview of their philosophy and practices while sitting
at the lovely tasting room inside the wine cave.
Winery building |
Our first tasting was the Jacquelynn 2010 Cuvee Blanc ($45) which is 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50%
Semillon blend. It is hand sorted, whole
cluster pressed with natural yeasts and Sur lies fermentation. Grapes are from Sonoma
County and see 35% French oak. Production is only 465 cases. On the nose I got some lovely pineapple and
honeysuckle. Although it had good
acid, it was quite smooth and extremely well balanced with tropical fruit, white
peach, melon and lime on the palate. This full bodied Sauvignon Blanc blend has a
very good mouthfeel and long smooth finish.
It is not as crisp and bright as some Sauvignon Blancs, the Semillon giving it a softer, more sumptuous presentation.
Autumn grape leaves |
Lovely setting |
Next was the Chateau Boswell 2009 Sebastopol Vineyard Dutton Ranch Russian River Chardonnay ($75). Again
this is hand sorted, whole cluster pressed, native yeast with Sur lies and 60%
new French oak. Only 216 cases were
made. This also sees 100% malolatic conversion or malolatic
"fermentation," otherwise known as MLF. (It was pointed out to me some years ago by a
winemaker that this is technically not a fermentation but a conversion and I
verified this by Internet searches and a discussion with a chemist.) I don't usually like Chardonnays that have
full MLF because they end up too buttery and unbalanced. I'm not even that keen on using oak with
Chardonnay because it is so often overdone.
This is a powerful Chardonnay with great fruit, good acid and a huge, rich, lush mouthfeel so that the malolatic acid and oak are beautifully balanced and
compliment the wine. This is not your
typical California Chardonnay. I don't know
how much of this is due to the soil and how much is due to the old vine Wente
clone. This is not a soft Chard,
although it certainly is not at all harsh or overly bright. It is full bodied and intense. I got peach and some minerality on the nose
with concentrated citrus on the palate followed by a long finish. The balance is spot on. I'm not sure what you
would pair this with, however.
Entry to tasting room |
The next wine provided an excellent example of exactly what
terroir means. It is grown in the same
area as the Sebastopol Chard. but on higher elevation in different soil.
Both wines were produced identically.
The difference in taste is entirely due to the differences between the
two vineyards. Enter the Chateau Boswell 2009 Russian River Chardonnay "The Voyage"
($75). This does not have the dense
richness of the Sebastopol Chardonnay,
although it is still full bodied.
The nose is earthier with some apple and citrus. Again it is beautifully balanced but has much
more minerality and seems more Burgundian if you will. This is an ideal restaurant Chardonnay although
I'd certainly be willing to drink it very slowly on its own. It's a wonderful Chardonnay, one of the
finest I've had in recent years. It is a great demonstration of how malolactic acid and oak can supplement the varietal characteristics of a Chardonnany rather than overpower them.
Entry to wine cave |
As good as The Voyage Chardonnay was, our next tasting, the Jacquelynn 2010 Beckstoffer
To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($175) was certain not to be anticlimactic. This is from the famous vineyard in Oakville
and only 200 cases are produced. It sees
100% new French oak and has 14% Cabernet Franc.
It is 100% free run. After a decent nose and soft but substantial entry,
I got a divine mouthfeel of complex flavors of cherry, blackberry and spices with
good but extremely well integrated tannins and numerous, complex
undertones. I was reluctant to allow the
first sip to go past midpalate, it was so decadently pleasurable. But when I did, I got a long, wonderfully
soft finish. This is an outstanding
Cab. Although it is a big Cab, it does
not have the extremely ripe fruit of some Napa Cabs that offer an intense fruit
experience nor is it big as in tannic and bold. It has substantial body and is
intense while being extremely well balanced with lots of subtle layers. It has a lot of texture and is very
multidimensional. I sipped it slowly and
didn't want to finish the sample I had.
Wine cave |
So, we have a beautiful setting, gorgeous stone buildings covered in
ivy, lovely wine caves, highly personalized assistance, plus exceptional wines,
all at one winery. Do yourself a favor,
if you are a serious wine lover; indulge yourself. Visit Chateau Boswell and Jackqueline Winery
if you ever have the opportunity.
Tasting table in wine cave |
3468 Silverado Trail North
707-963-5472
Date of visit: November
28, 2010
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