Shannon, our extraordinary wine host |
The Trefethen family began growing grapes in Napa
Valley in the late 1960s when I was
drinking Mateus and Lancers and thought they were good wines. According to the Trefethen website, "When Gene [Trefethen] retired in 1968, the
wine-loving Trefethens moved to Napa Valley – then considered an agricultural
backwater – where they purchased six small farms and the ramshackle
19th-century Eschol Winery, creating a 600-acre wine estate. At the time, there
were fewer than 20 operational wineries in Napa Valley and many of its
vineyards were on life support." Trefethen story
Trefethen building |
Almost harvest time |
In 1973 they
produced their first release. By 1976
the Trefethen Chardonnayearned “Best Chardonnay in the World” honors at the
1979 Gault Millau World Wine Olympics in Paris.
John Trefethen's wife, Janet, took over the wineries marketing in the
1970s and was one of the first women to become a winery executive. Their two children, Loren and Hailey, are now
actively involved with the winery, making Trefethen an authentic family winery,
not one just in name. Their motto is
"One Family, One Estate, One Passion" For 39 Years.
Tour guide? |
Trefethen Moto |
I recently tasted
some Trefethen 2011 Dry Riesling ($22) and Trefethen 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($100) at a party
and fell in love with both of them, prompting me to visit Trefethen again. I
had previously tasted the 2009 and 2010 Dry Rieslings when they were released
and, although they all look similar on paper, I found the 2011 to be
exceptional. It has a light citrus nose
with a full, dry presentation on the palate of apple and white peach with great
minerality and good, but not overwhelming acid. It has a long, delightful
finish. The Trefethen 2011 Dry Riesling is one of the finest U.S.
Rieslings I've tasted. We also tasted two Chards side by side, the Trefethen 2010
Chardonnay ($30) and the Trefethen Reserve 2009 Harmony Chardonnay ($50). They are both
superior Chards in different styles. The
2010 has a light aroma and is dry, citrusy and well balanced with some
minerality and a good finish. The reserve has a pronounced aroma with lush
peach and apple on the palate. It is a full rich
wine, being very smooth but not buttery.
It is rounder than the regular release with more peach and apple than citrus. They
use 20% malolatic conversion and 11 months of French oak. Both Chards are quite nice and which you
prefer will be determined by your personal preferences and what is paired with
them. After the Chards we tried the 2011
Viognier ($30). It had a nice floral
nose with a smooth fruity presentation that was light and refreshing with a long
finish. An unusual white wine, the Trefethen 2011 Quandry ($25), is a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay
and Viognier. It has an intense, floral aroma that is utterly delightful and
much more pronounced than any of the other whites. I got a lot of fruit, mostly peaches with some
citrus. There is sweetness,
but it is balanced. This is a wine my
mother would like, but that I would enjoy drinking with her. It is not as
serious a wine as the Chards or Riesling, but more of an easy, fun wine that
has more fruit and aroma than even their Viognier. I imagine it is a very popular wine with
visitors.
In addition to
this strong line up of whites, Trefethen also offers some excellent reds. Most Pinot Noirs from Napa grapes come from
Carneros. Trefethen is one of the few
wineries I know of that use Valley floor grapes in their Pinot. (Hendry is another I can think of.) Their
Trefethen 2010 Pinot Noir ($48) has a light nose with wonderful raspberry like fruit on the palate, and
pleasantly interlaced tannins. Fairly bright with light to medium body, I found
this to be a very nice Pinot. Next we
tried the Trefethen 2009 Cabernet Franc ($38). This varietal is often found in a Bordeaux
style Cabernet Sauvignon blends, but some wineries offer it on its own, and it
can sometimes be an interesting wine by itself.
In this case it is a blend of 86% Cabernet Franc with 12% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 1% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot.
This one has a great aroma, with soft tannins, good balance and nice fruit. It is one of the
better Napa Valley Cab Fancs. Next we
tried the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ($60) and the Trefethen 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
($100). With the former I got a very
nice cherry nose with mostly plum on the palate, good balanced tannin and acid,
and a good finish. It was a nice Cab but the 2008 Reserve was in another
league. It was fuller bodied wine with
ripe black cherry and spice. Extremely
well balanced with an interesting, clean finish. This is an especially good Cab and highly
recommended. We finished the tasting
with the 2009 Dragon's Tooth ($75), an interesting blend, which is mostly
Malbec (67%) with 19% Petit Verdot, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot and
the Trefethen 2006 Halo ($175). The Halo is 92%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec and is from their Hillspring
Vineyard. It sees 28 months in French
Oak. The Halo had a remarkable nose,
great black cherry and blackberry like fruit, with deliciously integrated
tannins. It is a complex, interesting
wine with hints of forest floor, spices and chocolate. This is an exceptional wine that is worth the
$175 price tag.
Trefethen is a winery that we plan to visit more frequently. (They are open to the public with no appointment needed.) Although we sampled 11 wines, we never did get to the Merlot, the 2009 Cab or the Late Harvest Riesling. They have several different tasting options, the Estate Tasting of four wines for $15 and the Winmaker's Reserve Tasting of all five reserve wines for $25. I'd recommend the Reserve Tasting for most serious wine lovers, but you should return again to try the estate tasting because you won't want to miss these either, especially the dry Riesling. We really liked all of the Trefethen wines but the standouts were the 2011 Riesling, 2008 Reserve Cab and 2006 Halo. Trefethen is an outstanding winery, and I think you will love your visit there.
Trefethen Family Vineyards
1160 Oak Knoll Ave.
Napa, CA 94558
707-255-7700
Date of visit October 10, 2012
TJ,
ReplyDeleteI tried their 2010 Dry Riesling this summer and was very impressed. Looks like I need to track down a bottle of the 2011.
Nick