Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Cornerstone Cellars and Stepping Stone

Cornerstone Cellars is on the main street (Washington) in downtown Yountville, a very convenient location for a pre or post dinner wine tasting to accompany a great dinner at any of Yountville's wonderful restaurants.  If you are staying in Yountville you don't even need a designated driver.  Cornerstone Cellars offered their first commercial release in 1991.  It was founded by two Memphis physicians, Michael Dragutsky and David Sloas  after David during a visit to Napa Valley was offered some high quality Cabernet Sauvignon grapes by Randy Dunn who had a surplus that year.  So the winery began with the purchase of five tons of Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.  Their first release was so well received, they decided to continue releasing wines and now have some long term contracts for sourcing grapes.

 
Tasting bar
Their winemaker is Jeff Keene with Craig Camp as the managing partner.  The tasting room in Yountville opened in 2009 and is across the street from the Post Office. It is open to the public and has a $15 tasting fee.  In addition to Cornerstone wines, they also offer a line of more affordable wines under the Stepping Stone label.  They do not refer to this as a second label and after tasting some of these, I understand why.  Although Stepping Stone offers less expensive wines, they are clearly premium wines.  Much thanks to our friendly and courteous host, Ben.


Entry

First up was the Stepping Stone 2010 Napa Valley Riesling at only $20.  Only 435 cases were produced. It is one of the better Napa Valley Rieslings I've tasted and the only really good one I've encountered for under $30.  Pale straw in color, it had a very nice nose with mostly melon and floral notes of lemon blossom and honeysuckle.  On the palate I got dry melon, grapefruit and lemon with refreshing crispness and good, but balanced, acid. The finish was medium length but very clean and somewhat soft for a Riesling that has such crisp acid on the mid palate. It is probably the driest California Riesling I have tasted (residual sugar is less than .02%) and is more in the Alsatian tradition with its dry, flinty minerality.  As much as I would like to imagine drinking this alone on a hot summer day, I think it would pair splendidly with seafood, foul or Asian dishes.  Many people seem to underestimate how well a really good, dry Riesling will pair with food. If you like dry Rieslings, you should give this a try.  If you think you don't like Rieslings because many seem too sweet, this is definitely the one to try. It is very nice, especially at this price and I highly recommend it.


Lounge


Our second taste was the Cornerstone Cellars 2010 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $25.  968 cases were produced. Very pale straw in color with greenish hues, and a light lemon nose, this wine bursts into action upon entry with lemon and crisp, balanced acid, some slight, pleasant herbaceousness and good minerality.  The finish is rather short but very clean.  Quite nice and easy to recommend.

For the third taste, I opted to sample some Cornerstone Cellars 2010 Oregon Willamette Valley Chardonnay ($35).  I rarely drink Oregon Chards and this was an opportunity to do so.  It saw 16 months on French oak, with 24% of that new oak, and had 50% Malolactic Conversion but was not at all fat or buttery.  After a light aroma of lemon and oak, I got lots of dry, tart, crisp, green apple and lemon with some oak.  Finish was medium length.  This is a different style Chard that some people might really like, but I did not find it that interesting.  (Perhaps I'm too fond of white Burgundies and Chablis.)  Something worth trying if you are looking for a different style Chard.

Other side of lounge


The Cornerstone Cellars 2010 Oregon Willamette Valley Pinot Noir at $50 was next.  62 % on new French oak for 15 months. Bright ruby color. This had a great nose, far better than most Pinots, of red cherry, plum and sweet cedar.  I got more red plum and red cherry on the palate but with the addition of some raspberry and baking spices. Smooth tannins.  Medium bodied for a Pinot. Long, smooth finish.  Some might prefer less oak, but I thought it was very nice.

The Stepping Stone 2009 Napa Valley Syrah at $25 followed.  Grapes come from Lake County and it has 10% Grenache.  Check the gorgeous color on this, a lovely rose purple.  Very pretty.  Good nose of black cherry and spice.  I love Syrah spices.  More black cherry on the palate and not at all jammy with good tannins and spice.  Tired of fruit bomb Sirahs and Shiraz?  Try this one.  It is actually fairly dry for a Syrah.  Different than most Syrahs. We both really liked it. 

Next we tried the Stepping Stone 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Franc. ($35)  This has 8% Merlot.  Bright ruby in color, I got some red fruit, tobacco leaf and graphite on the nose with black currant, blackberry, vanilla, oak, bell pepper, tobacco notes on the palate.  It was full bodied but well balanced, and the Merlot softened it out in a very pleasant manner.  Some Cab Francs lean toward being rather green and overly herbaceous.  Others can be too jammy.  Many are simply too simple.  This one is very well done and highly recommended.


Art work and lounge area


This was followed by the Cornerstone Cellars 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at $65.  This is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Dark violet in color. After a decent nose I got black cherry, black currant, cigar box, toasted oak, good structure and well integrated tannins.  Finish was medium length.  Drinkable now but will improve with age.  Very nice for the price. 

We tried the Cornerstone Cellars 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon next ($80.) This is from 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot and saw 22 months on French oak. Most of the Cab is from Howell Mountain Ink Grade Vineyard but some Oak Knoll District Cab was added.  The Merlot is from Carneros.  400 cases were produced and they have been producing this mountain Cab since 1991. I confess to being rather partial to mountain cabs and this is certainly one.  Deep dark burgundy in color with very nice aromas of black cherry, black currant and tobacco leaf starts this Cab out.  On the palate it is black cherry, black currant, blackberry with a lot of depth, and undercurrents of complex flavors such as oak, nutmeg, mushrooms, black pepper, etc.  Finish is medium length. This is a full bodied, well structured, robust Cab that needs air and will get even better with age but, for me, is interesting, complex and delicious right now.  I'd really like to sit down and slowly savor this wine at home.  Better yet, I'd love to taste this ten years from now. Very highly recommended and my favorite of the tasting along with the next wine.


By the case


For the finale we had the Cornerstone Cellars 2009 The Cornerstone ($125).   It is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Cabernet Franc and 2.5% Merlot and is similar to a reserve wine, although they do not call it that.  They also do not call it a Cabernet Sauvignon because they want flexibility to change the wine from year to year.  Black cherry with hints of sweet cedar on the nose.  Ripe dark cherry with interlaced tannins.  Soft, smooth, sophisticated and impeccably balanced.  Rich in texture.  Long finish. This is very different from the gutsy Howell Mountain Cab which I also like a lot.  Again I would need to spend some time with this wine to do it justice.  It is an excellent Cab.

Meeting room

Cornerstone Cellars offers some very good and interesting wines under their own label and under the Steppingstone label.  It is one of the very few wineries in Napa Valley where you can also taste an Oregon Pinot.  Of their white wines, I found the Riesling to be especially appealing.  It is very dry and quite affordable.  All of their reds were quite good, but I especially enjoyed the Cabernet Franc, Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon and the more refined Cabernet "The Cornerstone".  Even if you are not staying in Yountville, this is a winery you will want to visit when you are in Napa Valley.  They offer an extensive line up of superior wines at prices that are very reasonable for the quality. We highly recommend that you give them a try!

6505 Washington St.
Yountville, CA 94599
707-945-0388
Date of visit: May 15, 2013




Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Hall Wines St. Helena

Hall Wines St. Helena  is on the St. Helena Highway (Highway 29), south of the town of St. Helena and just north of Dean and DeLuca and on the same side of the highway.  As you continue on St. Helena Highway heading north it becomes Main Street and the numbers change so it is easy to think the numbers are highway numbers when they are actually Main Street numbers or addresses.  Although Hall is in a very busy section, it is a short drive off the highway and has plenty of parking and a nice grounds with picnic tables and sculptures. Drop in tastings are welcome (10 to 5:30 daily) unless you have a group of eight or more, in which case you should call for an appointment.  Tastings are $20 a person and they are in the Napa Neighbor Program.   Tours are $40 and by appointment only.

Front entry


Hall St. Helena has a sister winery called Hall Rutherford that is open for tasting only by appointment.  The St. Helena winery was originally founded in 1885 when it was known as the Napa Valley Co-op and was one of the main winemaking facilities in Napa Valley.  Craig and Kathryn Hall who opened the St. Helena winery in 2003 in the old Bergfeld Winery.  In 2005 they opened their Rutherford winery.  Their estate totals about 500 acres and  yearly production is about 75,000 cases  and they have been certified organic since 2007.  Their winemaker is Steve Leveque. Much thanks to Todd, our host, for being so helpful and informative.

Tasting bar

Hall is well known for their excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and many of their more recent releases score in the 90 to 97 point range.  But they also make a very good Sauvignon Blanc and our first tasting was the Hall 2012 Sauvignon Blanc at a mere $22.  Pale straw in color, it had a very good nose of grapefruit with floral notes of lemon blossom.  On the palate it was crisp and very refreshing with excellent but smooth acids and a pronounced lime and melon.  Finish was medium length and quite pleasant.  Very nice.  One of the better Napa Valley Sauvignon Blancs at a very reasonable price.

Sculpture


Although Hall is noted for its Cabs they began offering some Pinot Noirs in 2010 under the Walt label.  These now include releases under their Walt Collection from Sonoma County, Anderson Valley and the Santa Rita Highlands.  We tried the Walt 2011 Walt La Brisa Sonoma County Pinot Noir at $40 and also the Walt 2011 Blue Jay Anderson Valley Pinot Noir at the same price.  The La Brisa was a deep burgundy color with a light nose of strawberry with some floral notes.  On the palate it was a bright, fresh strawberry and raspberry with subtle spices. Finish was medium length.  The Blue Jay had more of a light red cherry aroma with more intense fruit, mostly cherry, on the palate along with a medium length finish. We both liked each of these Pinots and purchased some of each but tended to slightly prefer the Blue Jay.  Both Pinots are still young and developing but are drinkable now, although I'd give them some air.

Large patio


The Hall 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at $50 was to follow.  This is something of a best seller at the winery and 20,000 to 25,000 cases are produced each year.  This is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Syrah, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec.  It was a lovely burgundy in color with a light nose.  On the palate I got lots of ripe black fruit, mostly black cherry and black currants, with some cigar box and spice.  Tannins were beautifully interlaced.  Medium length finish.  This certainly has some age potential but may be consumed now with delight.

Sculptures and patio

The Hall 2010 Darwin Proprietary Red at $45 was up next.  This was 100% Syrah this year, although in previous years it has had some Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend.   As with most Syrahs, it was deep and dark in color.  I got some sweet oak and cherry on the very nice nose.  On the palate it was full bodied, delightfully spicy with black cherry, sweet oak, some cigar box and pomegranate followed by a medium length finish.  It was very appealing.

Side entry



Next was the Hall 2010 T Bar T Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon at $50.  It is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Merlot.  Aromas of  blackberry with some black olive and sweet cedar, followed by a palate of blackberry, toast and chewy tannins with a short finish.  A bold wine, this should improve with age. If you drink it now be sure to give it plenty of air and pair it with some steak.

Old building in back


Our final sample was the grand finale of the day, the Hall 2010 Jack's Masterpiece Cabernet Sauvignon at $125.  Now I see why Robert Parker is giving Hall Cabs all of those mid and high 90 scores.  I enjoyed this one so much that I made squiggly tasting notes that I could barely read.  And, of course, I did not pour any out.  This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.  It had a good nose with dark fruit, some forest floor and  cedar.  What hit me immediately was the balance and complexity.  Tannins and acid are beautifully integrated. I got black currant, chocolate and coffee along with great structure and a long finish.  This is a very solid Cab rather than flashy. I do not have to look up scores and reviews to know this Cab will be a hit and will be scoring in the mid 90s.  It is one of those outstanding Napa Cabs.  You have to be a member of their wine club to purchase it.  Good reason to join.

Sculpture

If you love great Cabs, you will want to visit Hall.  I counted twenty wines on their order form, with two being sold out and four being for members only.  And I know they make some Cabs that are not listed.  There is good reason to become a wine club member.  Not only will you receive discounts but you may purchase wines that the general public may not.  If you do visit, which we strongly recommend, you might want to give their Walt Pinot Noirs a try while you are their.  And if you like Sauvignon Blanc, here is a good one to try.

Large sculpture
 
401 St. Helena Hwy South
St. Helena, CA 94574
707-967-2626
Date of visit: May 8, 2013

Tasting room
Front entry sign during road construction

Tasting room

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Pine Ridge Vineyards


Pine Ridge Vineyards is on Silverado Trail north of Napa just south of Yountville.  It was established in 1978 and the estate now includes 225 acres in five Napa Valley AVAs, including four vineyards in Stags Leap District, three in Rutherford, three in Carneros and one each in Rutherford, Oakville, and Howell Mountain.  Production is about 24,000 cases per year.  The have a second label called ForeFront that produces about 20,000 cases a year.

Tasting bar


It has been many years, probably about fifteen, since I last visited Pine Ridge winery.  In recent years I've been hearing good things about the winery and decided to visit again.  Their new winemaker, Michael Beaulac, began in 2009 and I suspect the recent positive reports are related to his presence.  Pine Ridge has an educational demonstration vineyard with a weather station and different wine varietals plus ample parking and two large outdoor patio areas. It is open to the public without a reservation but tours do require advance notice.  Much thanks to John for hosting us.

Tasting room building

Our tasting began with a little gem of a white wine, something that will appeal to almost everybody, especially on a hot summer day.  This is the Pine Ridge 2012 Chenin Blanc + Viognier blend at only $14.  Very pale yellow in color it has a pronounced floral nose.  On the palate it is soft and easy to drink but with decent acid and lovely floral notes.  I got fresh, juicy fruit, mostly white peach, with some honeysuckle. It has a little sweetness but is very well balanced with decent acid and not at all what you would expect from a Chenin Blanc blend.  Many wineries produce a white wine intended to have widespread appeal.  Usually they are overly sweet and completely uninteresting.  This one is actually quite nice and is the perfect white wine to sip on the patio or next to the pool.  Although it is mostly Chenin Blanc, I got more Viognier on the palate.  John informed us that the Viognier was picked when very ripe but the Chenin Blanc was harvested when at lower sugar levels.  This is a very unusual blend, but a winning combination.  At this price it is quite a bargain and is a best seller at the winery.

Patio

Next up was the Pine Ridge 2011 Dijon Clones Chardonnay at $34.  This comes from one of their Carneros vineyards.  After a fairly good nose, I got apple, pear and peach with lemon blossoms and toast.  40% of it spent six months in new French oak and this is evident in the aroma and palate.  It saw no malolatic conversion but is still pleasantly smooth and refined with balanced but crisp acids.  Very nice and one of the better Napa Valley Chardonnays.

Wine cave

The Pine Ridge 2009 Carneros Merlot at $45 followed.  This is 93% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon.  It had 17 months in French oak, with 40% being new oak.  Lovely deep ruby/purple in color, it had a light nose followed by intense cherry on the palate, with well integrated tannins.  Pleasantly fruit forward, it also had nicely balanced acid that provides some crispness.  Finish was medium length. Although quite enjoyable on its own, this Merlot should pair nicely with chicken or turkey. 

Demonstration Vineyard


Fourth in line was the Pine Ridge 2009 Cave 7 Cabernet Sauvignon at $65.  It is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Merlot.  30% of it saw new French oak.  It is very appealing to the eye with its deep, dark red with shades of purple.  After a light nose, I got red cherry, plum, baking spices and well integrated tannins followed by a medium length cherry finish.  Quite decent.

Garden

This was followed by the Pine Ridge 2009 Tessitura at $60.  Tessitura means texture in Italian.  It is 56% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Petit Verdot. 40% saw new French oak. A dark ruby and purple in color it had a very good nose of toast and cherry.  I got red cherry, raspberry and some cranberry with spices on the palate and a long finish.  It is drinkable now, especially when paired with steak or other food, but should improve over the next few years. 

Vineyard


The Pine Ridge 2009 Onyx at $60 followed.  This is a very unusual blend of 42% Merlot, 30% Tannat, 21% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc.  Dark purple/black in color it had a moderate nose of raspberry, cherry, vanilla and spices.  On the palate it was cherry, raspberry and toast with nicely integrated tannins.  It had a long chewy finish of cherry and black currants.  This was a very unique and interesting wine and prompted me to read more about the varietal Tannat.  

Additional patio


Our final tasting was not on the regular tasting menu, but I'm certainly glad we were offered some. This was the Pine Ridge 2009 Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon which sells for $85.  It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and 65% of it spent 18 months on new French oak.  It is a very lovely deep burgundy/purple in color with a great nose.  Be sure to hold this one up to the light and over something white to appreciate its presentation and spend time swirling and appreciating the aroma.  There is a lot going on before the first taste.  On the palate I got black cherry, blackberry, some cedar with great, silky tannins and beautiful balance.  The finish was medium long and smooth.  This is an excellent Cabernet, complex and interesting, and our favorite of the tasting.  Robert Parker gave it 94 points and deservedly so.  (I am amazed that Steve Heimoff was less than enthralled with this wine, but perhaps it had not developed enough yet when he tasted it.)  I'll add this one to our all time list of favorite Napa Valley wines.  It is a lovely Cab, really outstanding and reasonably priced for the quality.

Vineyard

A visit to Pine Ridge is well worth your time.  It was not one of my favorite wineries in the past but has improved a great deal, possibly due to Michael Beaulac, their new winemaker.  Check them out.  And do not miss their 2009 Stags Leap Cab.

Entry sign


5901 Silverado Trail
Napa, CA 94558
(707) 253-7500

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Volker Eisele Family Estate

Volker Eisele Family Estate was founded in 1974 by Volker and Liesel Eisele.  Their son Alexander Eisele now manages much of the winery's operation.  The area was previously known as Rancho Catacula when 400 acres were owned back in 1843 by Joseph Chiles, for whom Chiles valley was named.  (Chiles is pronounced as in "miles.") The portion of those 400 acres that now constitutes Volker Eisele Family Estate was sold off in the 1870s to Francis Sievers, a German immigrant, who founded Lomita's Vineyard and Winery on the site.  The original winery building, some of the tanks and the old wine press that were constructed by Sievers back then still remain on the estate. (see photos)

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Volker Eisele



Old winery building

Volker Eisele Family Estate is in Chiles Valley at an elevation of about 11,000 feet, not the elevation one usually associates with a valley.  Although this is an actual valley, it is up in the mountains. Mr. Volker Eisele was instrumental in having it designated as one of Napa Valley's AVAs. Chiles Valley AVA is in the Vaca Mountains on the eastern side of Napa Valley and includes about 6,000 acres out of which a little over 1,000 is planted in vineyards.  Some wineries outside Chiles Valley source grapes from there and produce a wine with the Chiles Valley designation, but I could locate only five wineries that are based in Chiles Valley.  I asked Volker Eisele about this and he confirmed the small number of wineries in the valley.  Obviously it was designated as a separate AVA not because of its size or the number of wineries there but because of the uniqueness. There is no place else in Napa Valley quite like Chiles Valley

Old wine press

The Eisele's use to sell their grapes to other wineries but began producing their first wine under their own label in 1991.  They never source fruit from other vineyards and do not own vineyards in other AVAs, so all of their grapes are from their own vineyard in Chiles Valley. They produce around 7,000 cases a year.  Many of the vines on their 60 acres are about 40 years old.  The winemaker is John McKay.

Inside winery building

The primary focus of the winery is on Bordeaux style wines, three of these being Cabernet based and the other, their only white wine, a Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc blend.  They also make a very small amount of Sirah that is sold only to club members and is not available for tasting.  Volker Eisele is insistent on his wines coming only from Chiles Valley and is emphatic that his wines should represent the terroir of this valley.  He grows Bordeaux varietals because Napa Valley has the climate, geography and soils that make it best suited to these grapes.  The French had hundreds of years to experiment with this.  In the European tradition, he believes in growing only those varietals that do best in a particular area.  He is completely devoted to wines that are expressive of their location or terroir, although in conversation he does not use the often misused term, "terroir" and eschews all references to jargon and fancy marketing terms.


Sign


Volker is all about authenticity, the land, the grapes, nature, and integrity.  In perfect harmony with this, he also believes in organic farming and in minimal intervention by the winemaker.  The winery is Certified Napa Green Land and also certified as organic by both the California Certified Organic Farmers and the California Department of Food and Agriculture. 

Pond
We often seem to glorify winemakers. We want to idolize people, make them stars or heroes.  How do you idolize nature, the soil, the weather or the topography, even though that is the source of greatness in wine? Volker asked me, "Do you know the name of the winemaker at Chateau Lafite Rothschild?"  Of course not.  We know the winery.  We know the soil and climate from where the grapes grow.  A winemaker cannot make wines better than the grapes.  Volker has strong opinions on this and other issues. Great grapes are given to winemakers so the best can be brought out in them.  Whether you are focused on quality grapes or terroir integrity, you know that it is all about the grapes rather than winemaking magic.  If you don't have the right place, the correct vines and proper farming, then you will never find greatness.  Every great wine begins with outstanding grapes.  I have not met anybody who knows anything about wine who disagrees with that.  Nobody will ever produce a Napa Valley quality Cabernet Sauvignon from grapes grown in Modesto or Fresno.  It can't be done.  It is all about grapes and grapes are all about where they are grown.  Here is a You Tube interview with Volker Eisele you might like to watch:  Interview


Grounds
The winery is located above Lake Hennessey and is in a secluded, very rural area.  One nearby road goes on to Pope Valley and the other to Lake Berryessa.  If the location of Chiles Valley is known at all to locals, it is usually known as the place that is on the way to Pope Valley. The winery itself is in a large rustic barn like building with a rather charming interior.  Tastings and tours are by appointment only. 


Vineyard


 
After a tour of the vineyards with many questions and answers, we returned to the winery building to begin our tasting.  The well known Volker Eisele himself conducted our tour and tasting, partaking himself in each sample while offering a toast.  A separate wine glass was used for each sample, and we both had a plate of cheeses, truffles, almonds and dried apricots.  Much thanks to Mrs. Eisele.

Tasting room


Our tasting began with the Volker Eisele Family Estate 2010 Gemini at $25.  This is a 73% Semillon and 27% Sauvignon Blanc blend that was co-fermented.  It was barrel aged with 20% new French oak.  450 cases were produced.  A pale straw in color, this has an intense flowery aroma of Japanese pear, vanilla and lemon blossoms.  It is very well balanced and dry but not at all tart, with more pear and some lime on the palate with a decent finish. This is a very enjoyable wine to drink on its own, the Semillon giving the Sauvignon Blanc some roundness and immediate accessibility.  It might not have some of the complexity of some high end (expensive) Sauvignon Blancs or white Bordeauxs, but it more than makes up for that in pure pleasantness and price.

Old piano in tasting room

Next up was the Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon at $45.  This is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc.  It spent 22 months in oak with half of it in new French oak.  A deep purple burgundy in color, it had a nice nose of cherry and vanilla.  On the palate it was more blackberry and black currant, (Also called "cassis", but what is the point in using French terms when there are accurate and more familiar English terms?) with good structure, nice tannins and excellent acidity.  I also got some vanilla and forest floor, plus some minerality.  It had a good, moderate length finish. Although it is still young, it is quite drinkable now.  It is unique, interesting and complex, a Cab that I will need to spend more time with and will certainly do so since we purchased three bottles.  Highly recommended and very competitively priced. 

Tulips on grounds

Our final tasting was the Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Terzetto a Bordeaux style red blend made from equal amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  70% of it saw new French oak.  It sells for $75.  Making this blend is difficult because these varietals are picked only when all three are ripe at the same time.  This is not so difficult with the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but rather tricky with the Cabernet Franc.  I got some light cherry and sweet oak on the nose.  This was a full bodied wine with beautifully ripe, but not overly extracted fruit, mostly cherry and blackberry with hints of chocolate, buttered toast and sweet oak.  The tannins were very well integrated.  Finish was medium long.  Again, highly recommended.  It paired very well with a chocolate truffle per Volker's suggestion.  If you want a wine that pairs fantastically with chocolate, this is it.

Vineyard

Their other wines include a Sirah and a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon called Alexander. ($125).  The Sirah is very limited production and is sold only to wine club members.  Neither wine was available for tasting, but I'll bet they are both exceptional. 

Patio


If you have never visited Chiles Valley, we highly recommend doing so by making an appointment at Volker Eisele Family Estate.  If you can't visit but want to experience Cabs from all of the Napa Valley AVAs, you should  try one of their Cabs. I strongly recommend their 2008 Cab at only $45.  It does not taste like any other Cab I've had and is very nice for the price.  If you can spend a bit more, then try the Terzetto.  Volker Eisele Family Estate offers some unique wines from an AVA has its own special signature.  I don't think you will be disappointed.  If Volker or Alexander ever offer us a tasting of the Sirah or Alexander, we will be back in a flash.  Otherwise we will probably return in a year or two when new releases are out.

Winery building and patio


 

3080 Lower Chiles Valley Rd
Saint Helena, CA 94574
(707) 965-9485
 
 
 
 




Wednesday, April 10, 2013

David Fulton Winery

David Fulton Winery is in northern St. Helena, just down Fulton Lane off Highway 29.  It is actually within walking distance of downtown St. Helena.  There are some other vineyards on Fulton but only one winery open to the public.  This is the oldest continuously owned and operated family vineyard in California, originally planted in 1860 by the great-grandfather of the current owner, Fulton Mather.  It has an interesting history.

Tasting bar

The founder was a blacksmith and inventor who invented a one-horse plow that helped revolutionize vineyard practices.  He and two others found the first of the area's wine associations.  Prior to becoming a winemaker, he owned a saddlery in St. Helena and sold it to purchase the winery.  Initially he made brandy and wine.  The earliest surviving  invoice for the sale of wine was in 1868 and it is unclear if the grapes were grown or sourced.  You may read the detailed history of the winery here:  History

Patio

David Fulton Winery is a member  of the "Winemakers of Fulton Lane," a group of winemakers from the vineyards on Fulton Lane.  David Fulton Winery focuses on making lovely Petite Sirahs but the serve wines from next door vineyards of Jana Winery and Calafia Cellars so there is a wider variety of wines to taste after making an appointment.  David Fulton Winery is 15 acres of dry farmed, head pruned old vines.  The vines are on St. George rootstock with roots going down to an estimated 30 feet.  Only about three to five bottles of Petite Sirah come from each vine, in contrast to the 20 or so that come from some vines in Central Valley.  341 cases of Petite Sirah were produced last year. Keeping with family tradition, the son of the owner is the winemaker.

Winery buliding

As readers of this blog probably know, I am particularly fond of small family wineries that have maintained their connection with the land and nature.  Some of the large corporate wineries do make some good wines.  But I have found that the most unique, individual and interesting wines in Napa Valley come from small wineries where they have not lost contact with being farmers.  David Fulton Winery is one of those authentic wineries where staff are intimately connected with the vineyards and nature. These are how many of the wineries were when I first started visiting Napa Valley Wineries in 1973.

Patio tables

Our first tasting was from a vineyard next door to David Fulton, called Jana Winery.  We started with the 2010 Jana Winery Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $22.  322 cases were produced. A pale straw in color, it had a light melon aroma.  On the palate it was a full melon, not the more usual Napa grapefruit or lemon.  It was clean, crisp and dry but not tart, with some minerality and no herbaceousness.  It had a very nice, medium length finish of melon with some lemon.  This SB would be nice as a stand alone or would pair great with chicken.  It is a very nice Sauvignon Blanc for the price.

 
Barrel room

Our second sample was the 2009 Jana Winery Old Vine Mendocino Riesling at $22.  417 cases were produced.  This is a fairly dry Riesling and quite decent, especially at the price.  It was light straw in color.  The nose was fairly light but pleasant and I got mostly gala apple.  On the palate I got more of a Fuji apple and pear, with slight sweetness, but very well balanced.  The finish was medium length.  This is far better than most California Rieslings and from a winery I had never heard of.  Nicely done.

Vineyard

This was followed by the 2006 Jana Winery Old Vines Napa Valley Zinfandel at $35.  333 cases were produced.  Dark burgundy in color, it had a great aroma of black cherry and spices with hints of raspberry and black currant.  Medium plus in body, it was full of fresh fruit, mostly cherry and plum with great, well integrated tannins.  The finish was long with cherry, plum, some chocolate and a touch of licorice.  Highly recommended.

Vineyard from patio


I had never heard of Calafia Cellars either but we tasted their 2007 Calafia Cellars' Napa Valley La Reina next.  125 cases were produced and it sells for $65 a bottle.  This was a Bordeaux style blend that was dark burgundy in color with a distinct and pleasant to the eye purple tone.  I go blackberry, vanilla and sweet oak on the nose.  On the palate it was pleasantly soft but full flavored, with well integrated tannins, medium body plus, with cherry, black currant and hints of cedar.  It had a good finish of mostly chocolate and cherry.  Although it is very drinkable now, it should age well.

Old vines

Our final tasting was their famous PS, in this case the David Fulton Winery 2009 Old Vines Napa Valley Estate Petite Sirah at $45. This saw 75% new French oak and was dark, deep purple in color.  After a very nice aroma of spice and cola I got a smooth but chewy, spicy, black cherry and blackberry on the palate, well structured,  with a long finish of chewy cherry and black pepper.  It is full flavored but not over powering as some PS can be.  Although it is quite drinkable now, it will improve with age.  This is a superior Petite Sirah.  I'm sorry I missed it at the annual PS I Love You event this year, but will be sure to try it next year.  PS I Love You

Old plow

We heartily recommend a visit to David Fulton Winery, not only for the very good wines, but for the authentic, rustic experience that is increasingly rare in Napa Valley.  Service was very friendly and down to earth, and we were even able to meet Fulton Mather and his wife, Dink.  Reservations are required but may easily be made.

Sign


825 Fulton Lane
St. Helena, CA 94574
Phone: (707) 967-0719
Date of visit: April 10, 2013


Neighboring vineyard on Fulton Lane