Sunday, January 29, 2012

ZAP Zinfandel Festival 2012

If you think that all wine events are for wine snobs, think again.  The Zinfandel Festival is a down-home, fun event that any wine drinker should love.  On Saturday, January 29th, 2012, we attended the ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers) Grand Tasting event during the 21st Annual Zinfandel Festival at The Concourse in San Francisco.  This was the last of four events, prior ones being the Epicuria food and zin pairing on the 26th, the Flights Tasting on the 27th and the Winemakers Dinner the evening of the 27th.

 
 

Unlike Cabs and Pinot Noirs, Zinfandels have always been associated with unpretentious, reasonably priced wines that are enjoyed by a wide range of people. Zinfandels can be highly variable in their personality, making them something of a chameleon grape.  They can be light, soft and fruity or big, spicy and tannic, with late harvest desert wines also fairly common.  Zins are now often blended with other varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Sangiovese, Grenache, Dolcetto, Charbono, Barbera, etc.  The Zinfandel grape itself can be highly diverse in its characteristics so when blended with other varietals there is an even greater range of possibilities. I can think of no other wine that is so varied in its presentation.  The one thing all Zinfandels have in common, though, is that they are usually drinkable now and very few are intended to be cellared.  In addition to being a drink-me-now type of wine, there is a style of Zin to go with just about any food.

 




The morning session of the Grand Tasting was open to the Press and Trade and there was a special section where press representatives and wine critics (Press) could escape from the crowd and do some serious wine tasting by pouring their own wines from the many bottles that were arranged alphabetically on tables. Much of our time was spent down on the floors talking with winemakers and representatives of the wineries. Although we could taste only a small portion of the hundreds of available wines, we did find a few favorites, including Ridge, Mike and Molly Hendry, Highlands Winery, Biale Winery, Charter Oak Winery, Hendry (George), Ravenswood, Saddleback andTurley Wine Cellars.

 

Despite all of the wine and thousands of people, I did not encounter a single person who acted or appeared even mildly intoxicated.  People seemed to be happy, smiling and enjoying themselves.  There was also plenty of cheese, bread, fruit and other snacks to go with the wine so nobody had to drink on an empty stomach.  We were there during the press and trade session and not the public session, so it might have been different in the afternoon. 
 
If you like wine and would like to taste wine while having an educational experience that is friendly and unpretentious, you really should consider attending next year’s Zinfandel Festival. There is really nothing else quite like it. Whether it is the Flights Tasting, Epicuria food and zin pairings, Winemaker Dinner, or Grand Tasting, there is something for everybody and you are sure to have a good time.  The Concourse was easy to find and there was plenty of parking.  Glasses are provided at the tasting with enough food that you will not need a lunch.

Much thanks to Julie Ann Kodmur, ZAP’s Publicist, for inviting us to this event. Here is the ZAP web page.  Check it out.  Zinfandel Festival
 
Date of visit: 1/29/2012


Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Stony Hill Vineyard

Stony Hill Vineyard is a great example of a wonderful, small, family run winery that can be found up on Spring Mountain making some of the best wines in all of Napa Valley.  It is also an unusual winery for Napa Valley because they make mostly white wines in a valley that is noted for its reds, especially Cabernet Sauvignon.  But these are mountain wines grown in an entirely different climate and soil than down in the valley.  Grapes grown on Spring Mountain have a much different character than grapes grown elsewhere.

There is a distinct nostalgic charm to Stony Hill.  From the wonderful tour and tasting offered by Willinda, to the lovely, intimate setting and the purity of the wines, this winery offers an experience that cannot be found in most Napa Valley wineries.  It is a reminder of the old days when tradition, culture, family and commitment meant more than chasing wine rating scores or optimizing profits.  Stony Hill, like some other small wineries on Spring Mountain, remains true to the original spirit of Napa Valley.  They offer an earthy sensibility combined with a warm personal experience that is a welcome relief from the hectic commercialism of some of the big business wineries.

Stony Hill is just off Highway 29 at the entrance to the Bale Grist Mill State Park.  Check the directions before you go there or you will end up calling on your cell phone to ask for directions.  This is the only Spring Mountain winery that you approach directly off Highway 29.  From the park entrance there is a narrow, long winding road that takes you up to the winery.

Stony Hill is still owned by the family that first bought it as a goat farm back in 1947.  Their winemaker, Mike Chelini, arrived there in 1972.  They make some very good white wines and are now branching out to Cabs, although they only make about 3,400 cases of wine total per year.  Stony Hill uses oak barrels to store and age their wines but they do not use new barrels to add oak to the wine.  Older oak provides a subtle difference from stainless steel, but does not overwhelm the varietal characteristics of the wine.  I’ve always thought that Cabs could handle oak (especially big Napa Cabs) but that Chardonnays were often ruined by too much oak and did better with little or none.

The current releases include the Stony Hill 2009 Chardonnay ($42) that is not subject to malolactic conversion or oaking.  It has more minerality, complexity and balanced acid than most Napa Valley chardonnays.  If you like white Burgundies, then you should like this Chard.  The main difficulty with a very dry Chardonnay like this, without all the butter and oak, is that the varietal characteristics are naked, no wine maker tricks can be used and the grapes need to be the best quality.  There is nothing to cover or camouflage the grape.  Really good grapes must be used and it must be very well balanced. This is an outstanding Chardonnay.

The Stony Hill 2011 Gewürztraminer ($24) is also quite dry with the spiciness and acid perfectly balanced with the fruit.  It reminds me of the very nice, very dry Gewürztraminers that use to be made in Alsace back in the 1970s and 80s, when minerality and balance were all important.  It is the perfect wine for much Asian food.  This is one of the best, possibly the best, U.S. Gewurtztraminer I've tasted.

The Stony Hill 2010 White Riesling ($27) is off dry rather than dry.  You can taste a little sweetness.  But it is perfectly balanced with the acid, fruit and Riesling varietal characteristics in total harmony with the slight sweetness.  With a lovely nose and well-balanced palate, this is one of the best Rieslings made in the U.S.

The final wine we tasted was the Stony Hill 2009 Semillon de Soleil desert wine with 7.5% residual sugar.  This is an easy to drink, pleasant desert wine without the acid, body, botrytis or price of French Sauternes.  It is $30 for a half bottle.  Those who like dessert wines should try it.

Stony Hill also has a Stony Hill 2008 Red Table Wine for $25, which has some cherry on the nose, with cherry and chocolate on the palate, and a nice balance with good tannins.  It is a Cabernet Sauvignon that is called red table wine because they are just beginning to make Cabs.  It is a lighter style wine than most Napa Cabs and seems like it would be food friendly.  Next year this wine will be made as the Stony Hill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon.  If you want to try their Cab, we would recommend grabbing some of this 2008 at this price.

Tours and tastings are by appointment only but this can easily be made by phone or over the Internet.  There is a $25 nominal fee that it is applied to any purchase.  Since you will certainly want to purchase some of their excellent wine, the tasting will end up being complimentary.  If you like really good white wine and small, charming, family wineries, then Stony Hill should be near the top of your Napa Valley wineries to visit.

Note 2/6/14: My camera was not functioning at the time of our visit. It is a truly lovely place, and I wish I had photos.  I inquired twice in 2013 about revisiting the winery for an updated review and photos, but never received a reply so it appears this will be our only review of Stony Hill Vineyard.  They are an outstanding winery, however, and well worth visiting.

Stony Hill Vineyard
3331 Saint Helena Hwy N
Saint Helena, CA 94574
(707) 963-2636
Date of visit: January 25, 2012

Rutherford Hill Winery

Rutherford Hill Winery was founded in 1972 and was purchased by the Terlato family in 1996. They are especially noted for their Merlots, and they really do make some exceptional ones. 


Rutherford Hill building


The Rutherford Hill 2007 Merlot at $25 is well worth the price for a lighter style Merlot with decent fruit and a good finish.  They produced 35,000 cases of this, and it is, by far, their best seller.  But try the Rutherford Hill 2007 Reserve Merlot ($59) next and you will get a great nose, with balanced tannins and very good fruit.  This is one of the better Merlots in Napa Valley and we enthusiastically recommend it.


Outside Rutherford Hill building

The Rutherford Hill 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon at $40 and the 2007 Malbec from Atlas Peak at $38 (well balanced, good fruit, soft tannins) were both good.  Better yet was a Cab blend, the Rutherford Hill 2007 Devil’s Peak at $48.  Along with the Reserve Merlot, though, our favorites were the Cab blend, the Rutherford Hill 2007 TFV Cardinal’s Peak ($48) and the Rutherford Hill 2007 TFV Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon ($62). All three of these are really nice wines and were essential buys.  We will add them to our all time favorite Napa Valley wine list. They demonstrate that Rutherford Hill Winery is now making some excellent red wines thanks to the Terlato family.


Rutherford Hill picnic area

Rutherford Hill is just up the drive from the famous restaurant Auberge du Soliel.  Rutherford Hill also has a great picnic area with a lovely view. The picnic area may be reserved for groups or available on a first come basis to anybody who does a tasting there. Tasting fees range from $15 to $30 and are not credited toward purchase.  A tasting and tour is $25. Much thanks to Sal, our host, for making our visit to Rutherford Hill so pleasant and informative. 

Rutherford Hill tasting room



Rutherford Hill Winery
200 Rutherford Hill Rd 
Rutherford, CA 94573
(707) 963-1871
Date of visit: January 25, 2012

Rutherford Hill patio


Rutherford Hill tasting bar


Rutherford Hill grounds

Entry sign

Paraduxx Winery

Paraduxx Winery is different from most Napa Valley wineries.  First, their tasting setting is at tables where you sit down and are served six different wines in either a lovely setting with a large window view of the vineyard or an outdoor patio setting.  It is somewhat similar to Duckhorn, but without the long stemmed wine glasses.  And, secondly, their current release red wines are all blends with Zinfandel as the predominate varietal, along with various percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.  They say they are, “Devoted to stylish Napa Valley blends.”  Their one current release white wine is a Viognier and Chardonnay blend. 

Paraduxx tasting building

The wines are brought to your table and then you are left to taste them at your leisure with the host returning occasionally to ask if you have any questions.  They also provide crackers and cheese.  It is a pleasant mixture of elegance and informality that might especially appeal to younger visitors and small groups of people who would like to sit and talk about the wine while sampling it.  This provides a much different, more pleasant experience than standing at a bar, allowing for more relaxation and social interaction.  The fee for the current release tasting was $25 at the time of our visit.

Paraduxx tasting room

The current release tastings included their Paraduxx 2010 V Blend White Wine at $26 (very pleasant) plus five more red wine blends ranging from $35 to $84.  All of their red wines are very easy on the palate and quite drinkable now, with pleasant Zinfandel fruit leading the way.  It is hard to imagine any person who likes red wines not liking any of these.  It is more a matter of how much you like any specific wine at its price point.  We both thought that the Paraduxx 2008 Napa Valley Red Wine at $48 represented the most interesting wine at its price level (and this was what we purchased), but you might prefer one of the others.

Paraduxx tasting bar
We noted that they also have limited release wines and offer some wines from the “Duckhorn Portfolio.”  (Paraduxx and Duckhorn have the same owners.)  Although we did not taste any of these, we have done a previous review of Duckhorn Winery. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Paraduxx Winery and think you would also enjoy visiting them.  Highly recommended.

Paraduxx patio


Paraduxx Winery
7257 Silverado Trail
Napa, CA 94558
(707) 945-0890
Date of visit: January 25, 2012 
Photos were taken  at a later date.

Paraduxx tasting room

Paraduxx duck art

Paraduxx decoys

Entry sign

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Louis M. Martini Winery

Louis M. Martini Winery is a landmark winery in Napa Valley that every wine lover should visit at least once. The winery was established in 1933 and was the first winery to be built in Napa County after the end of prohibition.  They will celebrate their 80th anniversary in 2013. Louis Martini has long been famous for their Cabernet Sauvignons, and is a name that almost every wine drinker across the country recognizes.

Louis M. Martini entry sign
Louis M. Martini came to California in 1899 and made wine with his father who also had a wholesale seafood business.  After the San Francisco earthquake of 1906, they quit making wine and Louis M. returned to Italy where he studied enology at the University d'Alba. He returned to California after a year of studies and began working for various wineries until opening his own winery in 1922 called L.M. Martini Grape Products Company. It was during prohibition so he could only  produce sacramental and medicinal wines.  In 1932 he purchased 28 acres in St. Helena and the following year he built the building that is now the home of this famous winery.  In 1938 he purchased the vineyard that is now quite famous and is known as Monte Rosso the Italian name for "Red Mountain."  Some of the finest grapes in the world now come from Monte Rosso and a number of high end wineries source grapes from this prestigious vineyard. The Martini family were close friends with the Gallo family and sold the winery to them in 2002, but Mike Martini remained as the winemaker and many Martini family members remained involved with the winery. They soon created a special micro winery they called Cellar No. 254 for producing limited production state of the art wines to be sold only directly out of the winery.  I would love to have an opportunity to taste some of these wines.

A variety of tasting options are offered with prices starting at $15 for a sampling of three wines (as of January 2012).  They offer a complimentary tasting with each wine purchase. But they start everyone out with a complementary tasting of their Merlot. We had the Louis Martini 2008 Ghost Pines Merlot which sells for $20 (only $15 if you are a club member). This was a very pleasant Merlot and my friend bought a bottle.  The tasting option we tried was the Taste the Appellations tasting that begins with the 2009 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, proceeds to the 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and ends up with the Louis Martini 2009 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  These were priced at $18, $30, and $35 respectively. Both of us preferred the Alexander Valley one, with its cherry to plum nose and cherry with soft tannins on the palate.  This is 91% Cab, 5% Syrah and 4% Merlot.  All three Cabs are very drinkable now.


Louis Martini main building

We were also able to taste the Louis Martini 2007 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon at $85.  2007 seems to be a great year for Napa Valley wines and is considered the best of recent years by many.  This 2007 was a very good Cabernet, indeed.  It has an especially nice aroma of cherry and a palate of cherry and chocolate with good well-balanced tannins and a long finish.  It was rated 95 by the Wine Advocate, and I think that is a fair rating. This might be that Cabernet Sauvignon for a birthday or special occasion.  It is exceptionally good!

During our visit service was exceptionally friendly and positive. We think you will enjoy visiting Louis Martini Winery.  Their prices are exceptionally good for Napa Valley. Louis M. Martini Winery is open seven days a week from 10 AM to 6 PM, except for certain holidays.  No appointment is needed for a tasting but it is required for a tour.  Please see their website for current information on fees and holidays.  Visiting Louis M. Martini Winery  We have not been on any of their tours, but have heard that they are very good

254 South Saint Helena Highway
St Helena, CA 94575
(707) 963-2736
Date of visit: January 4, 2012 

Behrens Family Winery

Behrens Family Winery is an enchanting winery that makes some of the best red wine in Napa Valley. Known previously as Behrens & Hitchcock and Erna Schein, this winery is now called Behrens Family Winery, although some of their wines are labeled with the previous winery names and all of their wines have whimsical names that might confuse you. Try “Blender Boy,” “Fat Boy,” “Ode to Picasso,” (a deceased cat, not the artist), “Homage to Ed Syrah,” “Everything But the Kitchen Sink,” “Jersey Boy,” “Sainte Fumee,” “The Road Less Traveled,” “The Heavyweight,” “The Knockout,” “Left Bank,” “Farewell Cuvee,” “Spare Me,”and “Cemetery Cabernet.” I pity any wine marketer trying to figure this all out. And all of the bottles have labels with unusual artwork and phrases. It is all very creative and playful, with word plays mixed with a diversity of art and cartoons. In direct contrast to all of this is the seriousness of the wine.


View from Behrens winery


Staff at other wineries on Spring Mountain suggested we visit Behrens because “Robin does a great presentation.”  We weren’t quite sure what to expect of the wines after seeing such unusually named wines on the Internet, so we went there to see Robin’s legendary presentation.  Robin turned out to be very nice and highly informative.  Behrens also has great views.  The funky old house trailer with a beautiful wood interior turned out to be the tasting room. We noticed all the strange labels, odd wine names and varied winery names on the bottles. Then Robin told us they are about great fruit and not terroir.  Red flag for me.  I anticipated super ripe fruit, Robert Parker type wines or, at worst, fruit bombs.  But Robin dissipated our anxiety by telling us interesting stories about the owners and the winery. So we gave in, and went with the flow.



Behrens tasting room


This wonderful presentation by Robin was then followed by our tasting. First, there was 2008 Erna Schein Blender Boy at $50.  An interesting red blend of Cab, 28% Cab Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 14% Petite Sirah.  Cherry on the palate with flexible tannin and nice finish.  Next was the 2006 Erna Schein Herrick Moulds Cabernet Sauvignon at $65 which was much more drinkable than the still too young 2008 Erna Schein Moulds Family Cabernet at $75. Then there was Behrens and Hitchcock Ode to Picasso, with Picasso’s (the dead cat) passport on the label. Somewhere in the mix of tastings we encountered the 2009 Behrens Family Winery Kick Ranch Petite Sirah at $50, a wonderful PS, with great balance, nice PS spice and very good mouth feel and finish.  This is one of the finest Petite Sirahs being made today.

Our very favorite wine, though, was yet to come. This was the 2006 Erna Schein Fat Boy at $75.  It is 56% Merlot, 25% Cab, 13% Petit Verdot and 14% Cab Franc.  This had the wine fruit of a lifetime, ultimate fruit, divine fruit, fruit of the gods.  Who said it does not have terroir?  It has the terroir of Heaven where it had to be grown, and it must have been made into wine by Bacchus himself. Teardrops from Aphrodite?  Nectar of the gods?  No, grapes from David Abreu made into a magical wine by Mr. Behrens.  If this is what great fruit is about, then count me in as a fruit freak. Right bank Bordeauxs have more Merlot than Cab in their blends, but I never tasted any French fruit like this.  Fat Boy provided one of the ultimate wine highs.  It is truly a wonderful, magical wine of another world. This has sumptuous fruit but with very balanced acid and tannins and layers of complexity.  The 2006 Erna Schein Fat Boy is an incredibly deep and layered wine that gently explodes in your mouth, delighting the senses.  So, while Robin’s presentation alone makes a visit to Behrens worthwhile, you will also find wonderful wines there, and, if you arrive soon, you might still be able to taste Fat Boy.

Behrens tasting trailer


By the time you read this, however, Behrens Family Wines might be called by another name and you will probably encounter wines with names other than those mentioned above. All I can advise you to do is to track down Robin at 707-963-1774 and be prepared for a great introduction to a magical winery and a wonderful tasting experience.  All reds.  Mostly about fruit. But wonderful fruit. I suspect the winemaker for Behrens is more wizard than winemaker and that the ancient art of alchemy is employed in addition traditional wine making techniques.  Although Fat Boy is being discontinued, Behrens will undoubtedly have some other strangely named wines with odd labels.  Hopefully you will find them as delightful as we did.
  
Behrens Family Winery 
4078 Spring Mountain Road 
St Helena, CA 94515
(707) 963-1774
Date of visit: January 4, 2012  

Turnbull Wine Cellars Revisited

Turnbull Wine Cellars makes good wines, including some that are very reasonably priced. We had visited Turnbull Winery 5/21/10 See: Turnbull Wine Cellars We decided to make a return visit because my friend had never been there. In my last review, I applauded Turnbull for making a Tempranillo wine because it so seldom found at Napa Valley wineries.  It appears that they no longer offer this.  I also commented they had some very reasonably priced wines and noted how friendly the service was. Turnbull still has some very reasonably priced wines, starting as little as $18 for their Sauvignon Blanc and $19 for their Old Bull.  Service was friendlier the first time we visited.

 


Our tasting began with the Turnbull 2010 Viogner that retails for $30.  It had a lovely lemon nose, quite distinct, with lemon and vanilla on the palate and a hint of butter, nicely balanced.  My friend bought a bottle.  This was followed by the Turnbull 2007 Fortuna Merlot at $55 with a nice nose and some cassis, cherry and oak on the palate.  The Turnbull 2007 Cabernet Franc at $55 followed.  I got some vanilla on the nose, with soft tannins and some blackberry on the palate. My favorite wine of those sampled was the Turnbull 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon at $40 which is 80% Cab, 5% Cab Franc, 5% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and, just to distinguish it from any Bordeaux blend, 5% Syrah.  Nice nose, well balanced, with cherry on the palate.  Fairly big, but very drinkable now.  The last of the five tastings was the Turnbull 2008 Petite Sirah which retails for $40.  This is a decent PS, with nice spice, good fruit and a decent finish. 

The Estate Tasting Menu was $10 a person for five samples.  The $10 tasting fee is applied toward a purchase of $50 or more. There is also a reserve tasting, and I suspect the reserve wines are very good. Turnbull is in the Napa Neighbor Program.




Turnbull Wine Cellars
8210 Saint Helena Highway
Oakville, CA 94562
(800) 887-6285
Date of return visit: January 4, 2012

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Budget Wine Review 6

Hugel et Fils Gentil 2009-$14.99 at many local wine stores.  An Alsatian blend of 46% Sylvaner, 20% Pinot Gris, 20% Riesling, 12% Gewürztraminer and 4% Muscat.  Light straw with some green in color with lemon and apple on the nose, this is quite dry with some nice minerality and liveliness, but not too much acid. Although the residual sugar level on this is 1.9, it tastes much drier than that. Would go well with seafood.  A decent, dry Alsatian white usually costs about twice this price. Mildly recommended if you are looking for a dry Alsatian white blend or a good dry white wine for under $20. 

Cline Cellars 2007 Zinfandel-$18 on sale $12 at Cost Plus.  Very deep and dark in color.  Jammy and fruity on the palate with decent substance and a chocolate and pepper finish.  Fairly good for the price. Mildly recommended if it is on sale.  

Marques de Montana 2009-$3.99 at Trader Joe's.  Spanish white wine that was recommended by staff at TJ's.  Okay for the money but very simple and could be better balanced.  Not bad for a cheap white table wine but not something I would look forward to drinking.  At least it is not totally insipid or overly sweet as are many white wines at this price.  You might want to try it, but it is not for me. Can't really recommend it.

Friday, January 6, 2012

Budget Wine Review 5: Pinot Noirs

The Pinot Noir grape is a difficult grape to grow, demands a lot of attention, is prone to disease, doesn’t do well in many areas, provides a low yield, etc.  It can be one of the very greatest varietals if done well, but such wines are invariably expensive.  Finding a pleasant, drinkable PN for under $20 is not that simple.  Most PN at that price will be too thin, unbalanced and lacking in body.  You can find much better buys with almost any other red varietal, especially Zinfandels.  Here are a few budget Pinot Noirs that were recommended to me that I tried over the past year.  A subsequent budget Pinot Noir review may be read here: Budget Wine Review 7 Pinot Noirs

BV 2009 Coastal Estates Pinot Noir-$7.49 at Trader Joe's. Nothing bad but not that interesting or memorable. Worth the price, but you probably want to stick with the Castle Rock, TJs or Kenwood unless you are curious to sample under $10 Pinots. Pass.
 
Castle Rock 2009 Mendocino Pinot Noir-$7.99 at Cost Plus, Trader Joe's or Safeway. Has been on sale at Cost Plus for $5.99!!! Castle Rock sells many different Pinot Noirs so be sure to get Mendocino and the 2009.  I am not sure how much this varies year to year, so can only comment on the 2009. It is one of the best PN I've found so far for under $20.  Castle Rock has no vineyards and seems to sell most of their wines for below $10.  They buy wine from other wineries and then bottle it.  This PN has more substance and depth than many California Pinot Noirs and is a steal at the price.  While it is not a complex Pinot or in the same category as the a really good Pinot, it is about a tenth of the price of many of those.  It is difficult to find a decent PN for under $20.   A great bargain. Very highly recommended for the price.

Estancia 2009 Pinot Noir-$16 at Safeway. Cherry on the palate but a bit thin and young. Nice finish. I like the Kenwood and Castle Rock better. Pass

Kenwood 2008 Russian River Pinot Noir-$12 Safeway.  Decent body with cherry on the palate and a good finish.  It is fairly good at that price, although I prefer the Castle Rock above. Mildly recommended.
 
Mark West 2009 Pinot Noir-$9.99 Safeway.  Decent for the money but not as good as the Kenwood or Castle Rock. Pass.

MGM 2009 Pinot Noir-$6 at Trader Joes.  A Pinot Noir from Languedoc France.  Unbalanced with an odd, unpleasant taste. Doesn't taste like a Pinot Noir. This has been recommended by others, but I couldn’t even drink it  and poured the rest out. Not recommended.
 
Trader Joe’s 2009 Petit Reserve Pinot Noir-$6.98 at Trader Joe's.  This is NOT the PN reserve that TJs had a year or more ago that was such a knockout.  TJ's offers a number of various Reserve, Grand Reserve and, in this case, Petit Reserve Pinot Noirs and they are not of consistent quality. This one is too light, fruity and unbalanced straight from the bottle and needs air.  It will even be better the next day.  This is produced by the Han Family Wines and is a blend of Monterey and Santa Lucia Highlands grapes. At this price point it is probably worth the price, but it absolutely needs a lot of air. I really don't think it is worth your while.  Pass.

Thursday, January 5, 2012

Budget Wine Review 4

Spiral Wines 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-$4.99 at Trader Joe's.  Easy to drink cab with some blackberry.  A bit simple but very cheap and really not bad.  You might like it for the price.  Very mild recommendation, but don’t expect miracles.

3 Girls 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Regularly $12.99 on sale at Cost Plus for $6.99.  This was given 94 points by somebody and a gold medal at the California State Fair and was also recommended by a staff person in the wine section at Cost Plus.  It is easy enough to drink but basically a one dimensional “fruit bomb.”  I don’t know how it scored so high.  You might like it, but I didn’t.  Not recommended by me, but maybe I’m missing something.

Maxwell Creek 2010 Sauvignon Blanc-$12.99 on sale at Safeway for $9.49.  Slight nose of grapefruit with melon and grapefruit on the palate.  Dry but balanced.  Okay finish.  At less than $10 on sale, it is a bargain. Mildly ecommended at this price level.

Marietta “Old Vine Red Lot #51” Red Blend-$9.99 at Cost Plus minus a 20% sale.  This has been described as a “killer zin” and Robert Parker is quoted as calling this, “One of California’s Iconic value Wines.”  Despite this and a recommendation by staff  at Cost Plus, to me it was a total “fruit bomb” with  too much sweetness and no complexity or balance.  I did not like it at all and couldn’t finish it, which is very unusual.  (And I didn’t even save the rest for cooking.)   I can’t recommend it.  I could be terribly wrong, or maybe a gremlin got into the bottle. If you like one-dimensional over ripe fruit with nothing else, maybe you will like it.  Pass.

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Budget Wine Review 3

Vindicated 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley-$9.99 at Trader Joe's.  Dark purple in color with a good aroma of cherry.  Entry is smooth but it has rather thin mouthfeel despite decent tannins.  Cherry, chocolate on the palate, with a touch of herbaceousness.  Balance is not very good and finish is a bit short. This one just didn’t come together for me even after I let it breathe and even used a Vinturi aerator.  I tried it the next day and it was much better balanced but still rather thin bodied and lacking in fruit. (And I’m not fond fruit bombs or even Parker type very ripe fruit Cabs.)  If you do try this one, be sure to give it plenty of air. It is not a very drinkable wine straight out of the bottle. Although this is very inexpensive for a Napa Valley Cab, I can’t really recommend it, even though others I respect seem to like it.
 
Hillgate 2010 Zinfandel Lake County-$6.99 at Trader Joe's.  Drinkable when first opened but improves with some air.  Simple fruit forward presentation with little complexity or spice.  Not bad for the price.  Would prefer a drier presentation and more tannin.  I won’t be buying more, but it isn’t bad for the money and you could do a lot worse at this price. Pass.

Epicuro 2010 Vermentino Lazio white-$4.99 at Trader Joe's.  An Italian white wine by a winery that produces some incredible bargains in red wines.  Unfortunately this white wine is merely okay for the price.  It is decent enough with some citrus and spice on the palate but had a somewhat musty, unpleasant finish.  Even my wife (without my prompting) commented, “It doesn’t have a very good after taste.” It is popular at Trader Joes, so others must like it better than I do.  Not bad for the price, but I will pass on buying any more.  Pass.

Epicuro 2008 Primitivo Di Manduria-$4.99 at Trader Joe's. An Italian red wine by the same winery that makes the fantastic bargain, the 2009 Epicuro Aglianico Beneventano IGT, also at $4.99.  I was told that these two wines are the best of the four red wines by Epicuro that are carried by Trader Joes, so I decided to compare the two side by side, first straight out of the bottle, then with a Vinturi aerator and then the following day after pumping the air out of each bottle. The Epicuro 2008 Primitivo is very drinkable but not as good a buy as the Aglianico. The Primitivo is more fruit forward, a bit fat.  I like the long finish.  It is certainly a bargain at $4.99, but I find it a bit one-dimensional. I would not call it rustic, but it is rather simple, easy and fruity, an inexpensive Zin like wine without the tannin or spice. But the 2009 Epicuro Aglianico is more interesting.  Either one of these wines would be okay when a $5 wine is called for.  They are both easy to drink. Mildly recommended at this price.

Out of curiosity, I looked up the Primitivo varietal and it is genetically very similar to Zinfandel, probably a clone. European laws actually allow Primitivo wines to be called Zinfandels, but U.S. laws do not allow American Zins to be called Primitivo. That it is genetically similar to Zins certainly makes sense because the Primitivo is very much like a simple, fruity but very drinkable Zin without much tannin or spice. If you want to taste a good one, try the Hendry Primitivo from Napa Valley. I'm sure there are many decent Italian ones, but I don't know of them.
 
Addendum 10/20/12: I have tried the 2009 and 2010 Epicuro Primitivo and could not tell them apart from the 2008. It continues to be a simple, but honest red wine, with some forward fruit. It is soft, but not sweet, with some residual sugar but not more so than many fruity Zins.  It has some body, is fairly well balanced, and has very soft tannins. It is one of the few wines at under $5 that I don't mind drinking, and that is saying a lot.  If you want to taste a good Primitivo, try Hendry's.
 
The Primitivo is recommended, but don't miss the Epicuro 2009Aglianico by the same wine maker, a more interesting wine at the same price.  Please see Budget Review 1
Addendum 9/18/2012: I just had a bottle of the 2010 Epicuro Aglianico Beneventano IGT and it was more fruit forward than the 2009, had less tannin and was not as interesting. As noted, I did not like the 2008 as well as the 2009 either. The Epicuro Aglianico is still recommended as a drinkable wine for under $5, but seems vary from year to year. 

 

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Budget Wine Review 2: Alsatian Gewurtztraminers

Laugel Michel Leon 2009 Gewurtzraminer-$6 Trader Joe's.  I’m always looking for a deal in Alsatian Gewurtraminers, but this is not one of them.  Poor nose, too sweet, lacking acid and minerality, this is just too one-dimensional. Not recommended.

Lucien Albrecht 2007 Gewurtzraminer Reserve-$23 sale$18 at local wine store.  Incredible aroma of honeysuckle, peaches and roses.  You will be tempted to just smell this one because  it is so luscious on the nose.  Medium sweet, it could use more minerality and acid but it is still well balanced with a long finish.  Not as dry as I usually prefer but one of the most aromatic wines I ever encountered.  You might want to give it a try.  The ultimate in floral aroma. Mildly recommended at this price.

2010 Metz-Laugel Gewurztraminer Cuvee Michel Leon-$8.99 Trader Joe's. I love Alsatian Gewürztraminers.  They tend to be much drier than California versions which are often made into desert wines.  This one does not have the incredible nose, minerality or spiciness of a really good Alsatian Gewurz.  But then Trader Joes sells this for less than half the price of most decent Alsatian Gewurz.  Straw in color with medium body, it is well balanced, with medium sweetness (for Alsace) and is certainly worth the price. You might want to try it if you like Gewürztraminer.  I’m glad I tried a bottle but will probably not get any more.  Mildly recommended only if you want to try an Alsatian Gewurtztraminer for under $10.


Monday, January 2, 2012

Budget Wine Review 1

2009 Blason de Bourgogne Montagny 1er Cru- $8.99 Trader Joe's.  This was very inexpensive for a white Burgundy (one of my favorite white wines) but just too one-dimensional. Light lemon nose with lemon and tart apple on the palate, it lacks minerality, depth or finish. Worth a try if you want an inexpensive white Burgundy that is decent but not very interesting.  At least you won’t have to put up with the excessive butter and oak that are found in some California Chardonnays. It is worth the price, but I don't plan to buy anymore, however. (I tried a second bottle of the 2009 a year later, in January 2013 when I grabed it by mistake instead of the Jacques Bourguignon Chablis.  I got a bit more aroma this time, still lemon and some melon along with the apple on the palate.  It is okay but not one I would look forward to drinking.) Pass.

2009 Jacques Bourguignon Chablis-$8.99 Trader Joe's. Great with seafood.  It does not have the minerality or complexity of a really good and expensive Chablis. Straw in color with medium body, it is very dry but smooth, extremely well-balanced, with lemon on the nose and lemon and green apple on the palate.  It is certainly one of the better white wines on the market for under $10. I really liked it! At this price, it is very difficult to find a really dry white wine that is so well balanced and almost impossible to find a French Chablis that is this enjoyable to drink. Buy one ASAP if you like dry white wines and then a case or more if you like it.  Very highly recommended.
Addendum: January, 2013. I recently tried the 2011 (Now $9.99) and it was off.  I tried a second bottle of the 2011 and it was fairly good and can be mildly recommended. It is not the gret deal that the 2009 was, though.
2009 Epicuro Agliancco Beneventano IGT, Compania, Italy- $4.99 Trader Joe's. Would you believe a wine this decent at this price? This one comes from Southern Italy, the region of Campania.  Dark purple in color, with a nice nose, it is a smooth, well-balanced wine with good tannin and acid with blackberry on the palate plus a hint of pepper.  Almost all wines under $5 are very one dimensional.  This one is not.  The 2009 is probably my favorite red wine for under $5.  The wine expert at our local TJ’s told the story of how a customer took this wine to a blind tasting of Italian red wines and it came out top, over many more expensive wines in the $20 range.  BTW I tried the 2008 back in May 2011 and did not find it nearly as good, so be sure to look for the 2009.  Epicuro's Angliancco  seems to vary from year to year.  Great bargain.  Will buy more of the 2009, not the 2008.  (Please see Addendum below.) The 2009 is moderately recommended for the price. 

I was curious enough to look this up:  The Aglianico (ahl-YAHN-eh-koe) vine originated in Greece and was brought to Italy by Greek settlers in the 6th Century. Aglianico was famous in the ancient world for its part in Falernum, a wine revered by kings. It has been making a comeback after being nearly devastated by Phylloxera in the 19th century.  Aglianico is described as being full bodied, with firm acid and tannins and good aging potential.  It is deep garnet in color and can have some chocolate and plum aroma.  It is sometimes too tannic and concentrated to drink without aging although some newer wineries are using techniques to make them drinkable when younger.  It has a tendency to be complex. Aglianico is an important grape in the Campania region of Italy and is southern Italy's greatest grape.  It also grows in South Australia and Eastern Greece.

Addendum 9/18/2012: I just had a bottle of the 2010 Epicuro Aglianico Beneventano IGT and it was more fruit forward than the 2009, had less tannin, was not as balanced nor as interesting as the 2009 but it was better than the 2008.  It is still recommended as a drinkable wine for under $5, but seems to vary from year to year.  It is difficult to find a palatable wine for under $5 and almost impossible to find one that I would look forward to drinking.  This one, regardless of year, is worth investigating and is the best of the Epicuro $4.99 wines. The 2010 is mildly recommended at this price