Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Volker Eisele Family Estate

Volker Eisele Family Estate was founded in 1974 by Volker and Liesel Eisele.  Their son Alexander Eisele now manages much of the winery's operation.  The area was previously known as Rancho Catacula when 400 acres were owned back in 1843 by Joseph Chiles, for whom Chiles valley was named.  (Chiles is pronounced as in "miles.") The portion of those 400 acres that now constitutes Volker Eisele Family Estate was sold off in the 1870s to Francis Sievers, a German immigrant, who founded Lomita's Vineyard and Winery on the site.  The original winery building, some of the tanks and the old wine press that were constructed by Sievers back then still remain on the estate. (see photos)

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Volker Eisele



Old winery building

Volker Eisele Family Estate is in Chiles Valley at an elevation of about 11,000 feet, not the elevation one usually associates with a valley.  Although this is an actual valley, it is up in the mountains. Mr. Volker Eisele was instrumental in having it designated as one of Napa Valley's AVAs. Chiles Valley AVA is in the Vaca Mountains on the eastern side of Napa Valley and includes about 6,000 acres out of which a little over 1,000 is planted in vineyards.  Some wineries outside Chiles Valley source grapes from there and produce a wine with the Chiles Valley designation, but I could locate only five wineries that are based in Chiles Valley.  I asked Volker Eisele about this and he confirmed the small number of wineries in the valley.  Obviously it was designated as a separate AVA not because of its size or the number of wineries there but because of the uniqueness. There is no place else in Napa Valley quite like Chiles Valley

Old wine press

The Eisele's use to sell their grapes to other wineries but began producing their first wine under their own label in 1991.  They never source fruit from other vineyards and do not own vineyards in other AVAs, so all of their grapes are from their own vineyard in Chiles Valley. They produce around 7,000 cases a year.  Many of the vines on their 60 acres are about 40 years old.  The winemaker is John McKay.

Inside winery building

The primary focus of the winery is on Bordeaux style wines, three of these being Cabernet based and the other, their only white wine, a Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc blend.  They also make a very small amount of Sirah that is sold only to club members and is not available for tasting.  Volker Eisele is insistent on his wines coming only from Chiles Valley and is emphatic that his wines should represent the terroir of this valley.  He grows Bordeaux varietals because Napa Valley has the climate, geography and soils that make it best suited to these grapes.  The French had hundreds of years to experiment with this.  In the European tradition, he believes in growing only those varietals that do best in a particular area.  He is completely devoted to wines that are expressive of their location or terroir, although in conversation he does not use the often misused term, "terroir" and eschews all references to jargon and fancy marketing terms.


Sign


Volker is all about authenticity, the land, the grapes, nature, and integrity.  In perfect harmony with this, he also believes in organic farming and in minimal intervention by the winemaker.  The winery is Certified Napa Green Land and also certified as organic by both the California Certified Organic Farmers and the California Department of Food and Agriculture. 

Pond
We often seem to glorify winemakers. We want to idolize people, make them stars or heroes.  How do you idolize nature, the soil, the weather or the topography, even though that is the source of greatness in wine? Volker asked me, "Do you know the name of the winemaker at Chateau Lafite Rothschild?"  Of course not.  We know the winery.  We know the soil and climate from where the grapes grow.  A winemaker cannot make wines better than the grapes.  Volker has strong opinions on this and other issues. Great grapes are given to winemakers so the best can be brought out in them.  Whether you are focused on quality grapes or terroir integrity, you know that it is all about the grapes rather than winemaking magic.  If you don't have the right place, the correct vines and proper farming, then you will never find greatness.  Every great wine begins with outstanding grapes.  I have not met anybody who knows anything about wine who disagrees with that.  Nobody will ever produce a Napa Valley quality Cabernet Sauvignon from grapes grown in Modesto or Fresno.  It can't be done.  It is all about grapes and grapes are all about where they are grown.  Here is a You Tube interview with Volker Eisele you might like to watch:  Interview


Grounds
The winery is located above Lake Hennessey and is in a secluded, very rural area.  One nearby road goes on to Pope Valley and the other to Lake Berryessa.  If the location of Chiles Valley is known at all to locals, it is usually known as the place that is on the way to Pope Valley. The winery itself is in a large rustic barn like building with a rather charming interior.  Tastings and tours are by appointment only. 


Vineyard



After a tour of the vineyards with many questions and answers, we returned to the winery building to begin our tasting.  The well known Volker Eisele himself conducted our tour and tasting, partaking himself in each sample while offering a toast.  A separate wine glass was used for each sample, and we both had a plate of cheeses, truffles, almonds and dried apricots.  Much thanks to Mrs. Eisele.

Tasting room


Our tasting began with the Volker Eisele Family Estate 2010 Gemini at $25.  This is a 73% Semillon and 27% Sauvignon Blanc blend that was co-fermented.  It was barrel aged with 20% new French oak.  450 cases were produced.  A pale straw in color, this has an intense flowery aroma of Japanese pear, vanilla and lemon blossoms.  It is very well balanced and dry but not at all tart, with more pear and some lime on the palate with a decent finish. This is a very enjoyable wine to drink on its own, the Semillon giving the Sauvignon Blanc some roundness and immediate accessibility.  It might not have some of the complexity of some high end (expensive) Sauvignon Blancs or white Bordeauxs, but it more than makes up for that in pure pleasantness and price.

Old piano in tasting room

Next up was the Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon at $45.  This is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc.  It spent 22 months in oak with half of it in new French oak.  A deep ruby purple in color, it had a nice nose of cherry and vanilla.  On the palate it was more blackberry and black currant, with good structure, nice tannins and excellent acidity.  I also got some vanilla and forest floor, plus some minerality.  It had a good, moderate length finish. Although it is still young, it is quite drinkable now.  It is unique, interesting and complex, a Cab that I will need to spend more time with and will certainly do so since we purchased three bottles.  Highly recommended and very competitively priced. 

Tulips on grounds

Our final tasting was the Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Terzetto a Bordeaux style red blend made from equal amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  70% of it saw new French oak.  It sells for $75.  Making this blend is difficult because these varietals are picked only when all three are ripe at the same time.  This is not so difficult with the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but rather tricky with the Cabernet Franc.  I got some light cherry and sweet oak on the nose.  This was a full bodied wine with beautifully ripe, but not overly extracted fruit, mostly cherry and blackberry with hints of chocolate, buttered toast and sweet oak.  The tannins were very well integrated.  Finish was medium long.  Again, highly recommended.  It paired very well with a chocolate truffle per Volker's suggestion.  If you want a wine that pairs fantastically with chocolate, this is it.

Vineyard

Their other wines include a Sirah and a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon called Alexander. ($125).  The Sirah is very limited production and is sold only to wine club members.  Neither wine was available for tasting, but I'll bet they are both exceptional. 

Patio


If you have never visited Chiles Valley, we highly recommend doing so by making an appointment at Volker Eisele Family Estate.  If you can't visit but want to experience Cabs from all of the Napa Valley AVAs, you should  try one of their Cabs. I strongly recommend their 2008 Cab at only $45.  It does not taste quite like any other Cab I've had and is very nice for the price.  If you can spend a bit more, then try the Terzetto.  Volker Eisele Family Estate offers some unique wines from an AVA has its own special signature.  I don't think you will be disappointed.  If Volker or Alexander ever offer us a tasting of the Sirah or Alexander, we will be back in a flash.

Winery building and patio



3080 Lower Chiles Valley Rd
Saint Helena, CA 94574
(707) 965-9485
Date of visit: April 17, 2013






Wednesday, April 10, 2013

David Fulton Winery

David Fulton Winery is in northern St. Helena, just down Fulton Lane off Highway 29.  It is actually within walking distance of downtown St. Helena.  There are some other vineyards on Fulton but only one winery open to the public.  This is the oldest continuously owned and operated family vineyard in California, originally planted in 1860 by the great-grandfather of the current owner, Fulton Mather.  It has an interesting history.

Tasting bar

The founder was a blacksmith and inventor who invented a one-horse plow that helped revolutionize vineyard practices.  He and two others found the first of the area's wine associations.  Prior to becoming a winemaker, he owned a saddlery in St. Helena and sold it to purchase the winery.  Initially he made brandy and wine.  The earliest surviving  invoice for the sale of wine was in 1868 and it is unclear if the grapes were grown or sourced.  You may read the detailed history of the winery here:  History

Patio

David Fulton Winery is a member  of the "Winemakers of Fulton Lane," a group of winemakers from the vineyards on Fulton Lane.  David Fulton Winery focuses on making lovely Petite Sirahs but the serve wines from next door vineyards of Jana Winery and Calafia Cellars so there is a wider variety of wines to taste after making an appointment.  David Fulton Winery is 15 acres of dry farmed, head pruned old vines.  The vines are on St. George rootstock with roots going down to an estimated 30 feet.  Only about three to five bottles of Petite Sirah come from each vine, in contrast to the 20 or so that come from some vines in Central Valley.  341 cases of Petite Sirah were produced last year. Keeping with family tradition, the son of the owner is the winemaker.

Winery buliding

As readers of this blog probably know, I am particularly fond of small family wineries that have maintained their connection with the land and nature.  Some of the large corporate wineries do make some good wines.  But I have found that the most unique, individual and interesting wines in Napa Valley come from small wineries where they have not lost contact with being farmers.  David Fulton Winery is one of those authentic wineries where staff are intimately connected with the vineyards and nature. These are how many of the wineries were when I first started visiting Napa Valley Wineries in 1973.

Patio tables

Our first tasting was from a vineyard next door to David Fulton, called Jana Winery.  We started with the 2010 Jana Winery Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $22.  322 cases were produced. A pale straw in color, it had a light melon aroma.  On the palate it was a full melon, not the more usual Napa grapefruit or lemon.  It was clean, crisp and dry but not tart, with some minerality and no herbaceousness.  It had a very nice, medium length finish of melon with some lemon.  This SB would be nice as a stand alone or would pair great with chicken.  It is a very nice Sauvignon Blanc for the price.

Barrel room

Our second sample was the 2009 Jana Winery Old Vine Mendocino Riesling at $22.  417 cases were produced.  This is a fairly dry Riesling and quite decent, especially at the price.  It was light straw in color.  The nose was fairly light but pleasant and I got mostly gala apple.  On the palate I got more of a Fuji apple and pear, with slight sweetness, but very well balanced.  The finish was medium length.  This is far better than most California Rieslings and from a winery I had never heard of.  Nicely done.

Vineyard

This was followed by the 2006 Jana Winery Old Vines Napa Valley Zinfandel at $35.  333 cases were produced.  Dark ruby in color, it had a great aroma of black cherry and spices with hints of raspberry and black currant.  Medium plus in body, it was full of fresh fruit, mostly cherry and plum with great, well integrated tannins.  The finish was long with cherry, plum, some chocolate and a touch of licorice.  Highly recommended.

Vineyard from patio


I had never heard of Calafia Cellars either but we tasted their 2007 Calafia Cellars' Napa Valley La Reina next.  125 cases were produced and it sells for $65 a bottle.  This was a Bordeaux style blend that was dark burgundy in color with a distinct and pleasant to the eye purple tone.  I go blackberry, vanilla and sweet oak on the nose.  On the palate it was pleasantly soft but full flavored, with well integrated tannins, medium body plus, with cherry, black currant and hints of cedar.  It had a good finish of mostly chocolate and cherry.  Although it is very drinkable now, it should age well.

Old vines

Our final tasting was their famous PS, in this case the David Fulton Winery 2009 Old Vines Napa Valley Estate Petite Sirah at $45. This saw 75% new French oak and was dark, deep purple in color.  After a very nice aroma of spice and cola I got a smooth but chewy, spicy, black cherry and blackberry on the palate, well structured,  with a long finish of chewy cherry and black pepper.  It is full flavored but not over powering as some PS can be.  Although it is quite drinkable now, it will improve with age.  This is a superior Petite Sirah.  I'm sorry I missed it at the annual PS I Love You event this year, but will be sure to try it next year.  PS I Love You

Old plow

We heartily recommend a visit to David Fulton Winery, not only for the very good wines, but for the authentic, rustic experience that is increasingly rare in Napa Valley.  Service was very friendly and down to earth, and we were even able to meet Fulton Mather and his wife, Dink.  Reservations are required but may easily be made.

Sign


825 Fulton Lane
St. Helena, CA 94574
Phone: (707) 967-0719
Date of visit: April 10, 2013


Neighboring vineyard on Fulton Lane

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Frank Family Vineyards Revisited

Frank Family Vineyards, located south of  Calistoga, is a family run winery that was founded in 1884 and was originally the home of Larkmead Winery, which is now located just down the road.  The old original building, remodeled in 1906, is registered with the National Register of Historical Places.  From 1952 to 1990 it was home to Hans Kornell wines and they produced only sparking wines. In 1992 it was purchased by Rich Frank, former President of Walt Disney Studios.  Although there are no vineyards on the winery grounds, Frank Family owns twenty acres in Rutherford called Winston Hill Vineyard (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon), and 138 acres in Napa Carneros called Lewis Vineyard (mostly Chardonnay.)


Frank Family Vineyards entry sign

Frank Family Vineyards is a very popular winery and can be quite busy in the summer and on weekends.  Tastings are in the yellow house behind the main buildings.  The winery is open to the public without reservations unless you have a group of six or more.  The "classic tasting" is $20.


Historical building

I visited them previously on March 31, 2010 and liked the Frank Family 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and the Frank Family Blanc de Noirs. Our host this time, three years later, was the Assistant Manager, Zahala, who was very gracious and informative.

Tasting building

First up was the Frank Family 2011 Carneros Napa Valley Chardonnay at $34.75.  This saw about 70% malolatic conversion.  After a light apple nose I got some lively but rich apple and white peach on the palate with quite a bit of cream and butter.  I usually do not care for buttery Chards, but this one had good acid to offset it so was more appealing.  I did not get a lot of complexity or any minerality on the palate.  Finish was medium length.  All in all, pleasant enough.

Tasting room entrance

The Frank Family 2011 Carneros Napa Valley Pinot Noir at $35 was next.  I got a light nose of plum.  On the palate it was medium bodied, bright with fresh red plums, some pleasant but mellow tannins and a medium length finish.  A decent enough PN. My friend, however, really liked it.

Statues on grounds

I was quite fond of the Frank Family 2010 Napa Valley Zinfandel at $36.75.  It had a nice nose of cherry and peppers with blackberries, spice and pepper on the palate and a good finish.  It was fairly full bodied without being overly fruit forward and there was no excessive alcohol to spoil the balance.  Some pleasant Zin varietal characteristics were evident. This was one of the nicer Zins I've had recently and deserves a strong recommendation.

Grounds

The fourth sampling was the Frank Family 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at $49.75.  A lovely dark color with a nice nose, this wine was very well balanced with good tannins and structure.  I got mostly black currant on the palate, with a little spice and some oak and a moderate length finish.  It is a good Cab at this price level.

Walk way to tasting building

My favorite, by far, was the Frank Family 2009 Rutherford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon at $85.  This is a classic Rutherford Cab and well worth the price.  I got cherry, cigar box, black currant, vanilla and pleasant, dusty earth notes on the nose.  On the palate it was black cherry, blackberry, vanilla, black currant, and baking spices. It is full bodied, but not overpowering, with supple tannins.  The balance is perfect and the finish is long. As drinkable as it is right now, it should improve with age.  Robert Parker awarded this 92 points, but I think that is a conservative rating given the quality of this Cab.  Very highly recommended.

Buildings

Frank Family Vineyards is a winery you will certainly want to visit, but if you can't make it, be sure to try their Zin and the reserve Cab.  I also liked their sparkling wines during our last visit, although none were available for tasting this time.  Service both times was excellent.

Buildings


Frank Family Vineyards
1091 Larkmead Ln
Calistoga, CA 94515
(707) 942-0859
Date visited: April 3, 2013
Previous visit: March 31, 2010


Plack on historical building

Fountain



Envy Wines

Envy Wines is north of Calistoga and was previously known as Calistoga Cellars until it changed hands in 2006.  It is now owned by Nils Venge, who also owns Saddleback Cellars, and Mark Carter, who owns Carter Cellars. (Carter Cellars wines may also be tasted at Envy Wines with special reservations.) Nils is the winemaker and is famous for having made the Groth Vineyards 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve that received 100 points from Robert Parker. The winery is named "Envy" after the initials of Nils Venge, "N. V." The estate consists of twelve acres out of which eleven are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Merlot.  Some grapes are sourced from other vineyards. Total production is less than 5,000 cases per year.    Reservations are required but may easily be made.  The tasting fee of $15 is waived with the purchase of two bottles of wine.

Envy Wines tasting bar

Our tasting began with the Envy Wines 2011 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($25). This is made from one-third estate grapes and two-thirds sourced grapes.  400 cases were produced. Light straw in color.  After a good nose of mostly lemon there was a crisp, but not tart, lemon and Japanese pear on the palate with some minerality.  It had a medium length but very pleasant finish of lemon and  vanilla.  A nice SB for the price.

Envy Wines tasting room

Envy's Bee Bee's blend has been produced yearly and is named after Nil's now deceased dog.  We tasted the Envy Wines 2010 Calistoga Estate Bee Bee's Blend ($41).  450 cases were produced. Light ruby in color, it is 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petite Sirah and has a nice aroma of red cherries with hints of cedar.  Although rather fruit forward on the palate, it was not jammy, and had red cherry, pepper and nicely integrated tannins followed by a lovely and long finish of cherry, spices and pepper.  This was a very appealing red blend that is quite drinkable now.  I liked it almost as much as the Cab and PS, and it is a rather unusual blend.  My friend liked it a lot.

Patio in front of tasting room

Envy Wines from entry way

Next up was the Envy Wines 2010 Calistoga Estate Cabernet Sauvignon at $48.  390 cases were produced.  This is 100% Cab.  An appealing bright purple in color, it had a very nice aroma of black cherry, smoke and vanilla.  Smooth on the palate, it was mostly black cherry with some vanilla.  The finish was quite long with cherry, lingering tannins and spice.  A very nice Cab, indeed, and, along with the Petite Sirah, my favorite of the wines we tasted.

Envy Wines cellar building


The Envy Wines 2010 Calistoga Estate Petite Sirah at $45 followed.  390 cases were produced.  Dark ruby in color, it had a great nose, mostly spice and pepper.  On the palate I got mostly blackberries, pepper and some cola with very nicely interlaced tannins.  Although this was a full bodied Petite Sirah, the varietal characteristics came through nicely.  The finish length was medium plus with mostly cola and blackberries.  Definitely a superior Petite Sirah, and, along with the Cab, my favorite of the wines we sampled.


Envy Wines from entry


The final taste was the Envy Wines 2009 Envy Late Harvest at $45 a half bottle.  This was 100% Semillon, with a flowery nose and a pleasant palate of mostly peach and apricot.  Although easy to drink, it seemed rather simple and did not appear to have the subtlety or complexity of a really good French Sauterne, but it will probably appeal to many persons who like soft, sweet white wines. 

Original art on display

We enjoyed our visit to Envy Wines and want to thank Phillip for being such a gracious and helpful host.  Envy Wines is located across for the Old Faithful Geyser in Calistoga  and is easy to locate.  We highly recommend visiting them but, if you are unable to do so, you should check out their wines, especially the Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bee Bee's Blend.



Envy Wines
1170 Tubbs Ln.
Calistoga, CA 94515
707-942-4677707-942-4677
Date of visit: April 3, 2013