Chateau Boswell and Jacquelynn Winery

Chateau Boswell is a remarkable Napa Valley winery on Silverado Trail near St. Helena, where the utmost importance is placed on attention to detail and perfection of their wines.  The produce only very small lots of premium wines and take extreme measures not to compromise quality.  Although main emphasis is on terroir, or the uniquely individual qualities of very special, site specific vineyards, Chateau Boswell also obviously values the highest quality fruit and goes to great lengths to use only the finest.  Everything about them is quality without compromise. Even their corks are among the highest quality and most expensive that are available and are carefully tested by the winery to minimize "corkage."

Entry sign

Founded in 1979 by Thornton Boswell, under the direction of Andre Tchelistcheff, their first production was a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  In 1997 Susan and RT Boswell expanded the vineyard to hillside organically grown plantings.  Susan also designed their wine caves that are 65 feet below the surface.  The 11,000 square foot cave was designed to be used without any additional energy use. A separate winery, Jacquelynn Wines, began production in 2002, under direction of Josh and Jacquelynn Peeples.  The two labels have the same winemaker, Russell Bevan, but other staff are separate.  There is no "second label"; the wines are of comparable quality and production of both labels are intended to complement each.  In 2007 they were the first certified Napa Green Winery.  As with many smaller wineries, reservations are required.

Gated entry drive

Next to the beautiful stone building, designed by RT Boswell, are the wine caves, with all of the production equipment, fermenting and storage barrels and the tasting room.  Four thousand years ago the area was an obsidian arrowhead manufacturing site and some of this obsidian was used for the floor that leads to the wine cave.  After a very personal and highly informative tour of the wine cave, we were given an overview of  their philosophy and practices while sitting at the lovely tasting room inside the wine cave.

Winery building

Our first tasting was the Jacquelynn 2010 Cuvee Blanc ($45) which is 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Semillon blend.  It is hand sorted, whole cluster pressed with natural yeasts and Sur lies fermentation.  Grapes are from Sonoma County and see 35% French oak.  Production is only 465 cases.  On the nose I got some lovely pineapple and honeysuckle.  Although it had good acid, it was quite smooth and extremely well balanced with tropical fruit, white peach, melon and lime on the palate. This full bodied Sauvignon Blanc blend has a very good mouthfeel and long smooth finish.  It is not as crisp and bright as some Sauvignon Blancs, the Semillon giving it a softer, more sumptuous presentation.

Autumn grape leaves

Lovely setting

Next was the Chateau Boswell 2009 Sebastopol Vineyard Dutton Ranch Russian River Chardonnay ($75).  Again this is hand sorted, whole cluster pressed, native yeast with Sur lies and 60% new French oak.  Only 216 cases were made. This also sees 100% malolatic conversion or malolatic "fermentation," otherwise known as MLF.  (It was pointed out to me some years ago by a winemaker that this is technically not a fermentation but a conversion and I verified this by Internet searches and a discussion with a chemist.)   I don't usually like Chardonnays that have full MLF because they end up too buttery and unbalanced.  I'm not even that keen on using oak with Chardonnay because it is so often overdone.  This is a powerful Chardonnay with great fruit, good acid and a huge, rich, lush mouthfeel so that the malolatic acid and oak are beautifully balanced and compliment the wine.  This is not your typical California Chardonnay.  I don't know how much of this is due to the soil and how much is due to the old vine Wente clone.  This is not a soft Chard, although it certainly is not at all harsh or overly bright.  It is full bodied and intense.  I got peach and some minerality on the nose with concentrated citrus on the palate followed by a long finish.  The balance is spot on. I'm not sure what you would pair this with, however. 

Entry to tasting room

The next wine provided an excellent example of exactly what terroir means.  It is grown in the same area as the Sebastopol Chard. but on higher elevation in different soil.  Both wines were produced identically.  The difference in taste is entirely due to the differences between the two vineyards.  Enter the Chateau Boswell 2009 Russian River Chardonnay "The Voyage" ($75).  This does not have the dense richness of the Sebastopol Chardonnay,  although it is still full bodied.  The nose is earthier with some apple and citrus.  Again it is beautifully balanced but has much more minerality and seems more Burgundian if you will.  This is an ideal restaurant Chardonnay although I'd certainly be willing to drink it very slowly on its own.  It's a wonderful Chardonnay, one of the finest I've had in recent years.  It is a great demonstration of how malolactic acid and oak can supplement the varietal characteristics of a Chardonnany rather than overpower them.

Entry to wine cave

As good as The Voyage Chardonnay was, our next tasting, the Jacquelynn 2010  Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($175) was certain not to be anticlimactic.  This is from the famous vineyard in Oakville and only 200 cases are produced.  It sees 100% new French oak and has 14% Cabernet Franc.  It is 100% free run. After a decent nose and soft but substantial entry, I got a divine mouthfeel of complex flavors of cherry, blackberry and spices with good but extremely well integrated tannins and numerous, complex undertones.  I was reluctant to allow the first sip to go past midpalate, it was so decadently pleasurable.  But when I did, I got a long, wonderfully soft finish.  This is an outstanding Cab.  Although it is a big Cab, it does not have the extremely ripe fruit of some Napa Cabs that offer an intense fruit experience nor is it big as in tannic and bold. It has substantial body and is intense while being extremely well balanced with lots of subtle layers.  It has a lot of texture and is very multidimensional.  I sipped it slowly and didn't want to finish the sample I had. 

Wine cave

So, we have a beautiful setting, gorgeous stone buildings covered in ivy, lovely wine caves, highly personalized assistance, plus exceptional wines, all at one winery.  Do yourself a favor, if you are a serious wine lover; indulge yourself.  Visit Chateau Boswell and Jackqueline Winery if you ever have the opportunity.

Tasting table in wine cave

Chateau Boswell

3468 Silverado Trail North

Saint Helena, CA 94574

707-963-5472

Date of visit: November 28, 2010

Napa Valley Vineyards in Autumn Photos

Photos of Napa Valley Vineyards in Autumn.  Here are some photos I took last week in Napa Valley.  The first four are in Deer Park, just East of St. Helena.  The others are along Silverado Trail.  Most were taken just after a rain so the colors are especially vivid.

This is the firstt photo again in extra large size.
Formatting restricted the beginning photos to large size only.

Burgess Cellars

Burgess Cellars is a wonderful winery that was purchased by Tom Burgess in 1972 and offered their first production the same year, making it one of the oldest family owned wineries in Napa Valley.  The Burgess family obviously values tradition.  Their winemaker, Bill Sorenson, has been with them since they were founded and our excellent wine host, JacqueLynn, raved about what a great place it is to work and how wonderful the owners are. This is not a large, corporate winery owned by some international business.  It is an older, small, family owned winery that values tradition, consideration of others, careful tending of the land and love of wine.  Unusual among smaller wineries, tradition is also honored by Burgess Cellars by having a rather unique wine library  collection, where their older wines, mostly aged Cabs, are sold at reasonable prices.

Entry to Burgess Cellars tasting room

I must confess I do not understand the logic of Napa wine districts.  Burgess is located on Howell Mountain on the road to Angwin, about half way there from the Silverado Trail on Deer Park Road just East of St. Helena.  I have driven by there many times, but this is the first time I have visited.   Two of the three small vineyard owned by Burgess are on Howell Mountain.  Yet the winery is not in the Howell Mountain District or AVA so they can't be labeled as such.  They have been growing grapes there since the 1880s and Burgess is one of the older Napa Valley wineries.  I can't imagine how they were not included in the Howell Mountain District.  They have one vineyard in Yountville in the Oak Knoll District and two on Howell mountain, one on the western slope and the other on the eastern slope.  They produce only hand crafted red wines and emphasize "terroir" in their wines. 

Tasting bar

Burgess Cellars has a lovely view above Bell Canyon Reservoir.  The tasting room was built in the 1960s when Souverain owned the winery.  All of the wine they produce is from their own vineyards, the two on Howell Mountain being at about 800 to 1,000 feet with a 10 to 15 degree warmer summer temperature than the valley floor.  With that temperature advantage their wines ripen earlier and often miss the fall rain.

View from Burgess Cellars

Before I proceed with our tasting notes, let me mention some of the wines available at Burgess Cellars and the prices, which are unusually reasonable for Napa Valley wines, especially ones of this high quality. The 2009 Grenache is $24, 2008 Merlot $28, 2008 Syrah $28, 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon $38, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon  $40, 2006 Cab $42, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon $68 and library Cabs available back to 1979 at a various prices.  Their total production is about 15,000 cases per year.

Another view from Burgess Cellars

The Burgess 2008 Syrah has 12% Grenache added.  It had a lovely aroma of plums with pleasantly brambly blackberry on the palate and good mouth feel plus a decent finish. It saw 40% French oak and 60% American oak. The Burgess 2008 Merlot is 100% Merlot and was exceptionally nice for the price.  This is not one of those bland Merlots that give the varietal a bad name.  No wonder it has received numerous awards.  It has structure and character along with lovely Merlot black cherry fruit plus a good finish.  This is a Merlot for those who like a fuller bodied and more interesting Merlot with supple tannins. The Burgess 2009 Grenache is also exceptionally good for the price.  It benefits from the addition of some Syrah skins and had a very nice aroma of red fruit with some pepper.  Although it is typically light bodied, it seemed to have more structure and body than most Grenaches; in other words, it was more complex and interesting.  Those who like an easy drinking red will relish this Grenache, but those who like reds with a bit more character and substance should also like it.  It is probably the most pleasant and interesting Napa Valley Grenache I have encountered. The Burgess 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, 4% Petite Verdot and 4% Malbec) had a light nose with a full body of mostly red cherry with some spice, very well integrated tannins and a good finish. It sees French and American oak. Tannins are very well integrated. A very good Napa Cab for only $38. 

If you want to experience the difference between aroma and bouquet in a wine, you may do so in the Burgess 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon. Bouquet is what is acquired by a wine through aging or cellaring.  This Cab has a remarkable bouquet that is very complex and interesting and could perhaps be described as earthy and smokey (forest floor and cigar box), although that does not do it justice.  The French appreciate aged red Bordeauxs and, apparently, so does the Burgess family.  BTW please don't stereotype Burgess Cellars simply because they are a mountain winery.  As with most mountain wineries there is an emphasis on terroir or very interesting characteristics unique to the vineyard.  But Burgess does not produce big, bold, tannic mountain wines but rather wines that are more French in style, somewhat lighter but nuanced and complex.  Last of our tasting was a special offering of their Burgess 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  This was a knockout wine that had wonderful fruit, great balance and a fuller body with very good substance and mouth feel.  It was lush on the palate with dark cherry and some chocolate with a long finish. It is well worth the $80 and was a real standout. 

Greeting sign

We purchase over a case of Burgess Cellar wines.  Both of us thought they were exceptionally good and excellent buys.   JacqueLynn was kind enough to allow me to purchase a bottle of their Burgess 2009 Petite Sirah ($28) when I told her how much I loved the varietal.  It sells out quickly and is in very short supply.  I was able to savor this later and really liked it.  This was the first lighter styled Petite Sirah I have ever liked.  Most PS are big and bold with plenty of tannin, spice and substance.  I've found lighter ones to be unbalanced with too much sweetness or fruitiness at the expensive the varietal characteristics.  This one was lighter for a PS but still a substantial wine with the spice and varietal characteristics all intact.  When I was drinking it I thought that this was probably how the French would make a Petite Sirah if they grew the varietal.  If you think of a big, tannic Napa Cab compared to a lighter styled red Bordeaux that reaches for more elegance than power, you will have some idea.  It is still very much a Petite Sirah but not as intense or overbearing as some. I got some raspberry on the nose. Brighter and lighter than most PS but not at all thin or lacking in body or tannin.   Some cherry and caramel with a good finish.  Proof that a PS does not have to come charging out of the bottle like an enraged bull in order to remain true to the varietal characteristics. I highly recommend the Burgess Cellars Petite Sirah if you can find some.  Probably the best way to be able to purchase some is to join the Burgess Cellars wine club which is remarkably inexpensive.  You only have to buy two bottles, three times a year, at a cost of between $55 and $80 per shipment plus shipping and tax, if applicable. In addition to 20% off, you will have priority access to their smaller production wines.

If you love unique, high quality red wines that are very reasonably priced, you will want to visit Burgess Cellars or track down some of their wines.  We really liked their entire line up of wines and highly recommend them.

Burgess Cellars

1108 Deer Park Rd.

Deer Park, CA 94579

800-752-9463

Date of visit: November 20, 2012

Boeschen Vineyards

Boeschen Vineyards is an enchanting little winery, with pleasant, charming owners, wonderful wine, one of the loveliest wine caves I've seen, and a garden that you would usually only see in magazines. Advance appointments are, however, essential.

Boeschen Vineyards is in the St. Helena District in Napa County just off Silverado Trail.  It was founded in 1999, and for several years they sold their grapes to other wineries. Their underground, wine cave was completed in 2006 and houses the entire winery.  The gardens at Boeschen date back to 1890 and Susan Boeschen has done much to restore the gardens to what they might have been like back then.  Outside the cave Boeschen Vineyards seems more like a botanical garden than a winery with all of the diverse plants they have and the winery itself being totally in a wine cave.  Boeschen is very much a family winery, and Doug Boeschen conducts tours and is also the primary wine maker. The Boeschen family runs the business, performs all of the cellar work, and is actively involved in the vineyard.

Entry sign

The estate has a long and very interesting history, the primary house having been built in 1890 with a Russian princess living there as the rumored mistress of a famous industrialist.  It was also a prune and walnut orchard, a camellia nursery and a Christmas tree farm.

Entry gate

At Boeschen Vineyards, great emphasis is put on sustainable farming. Only organic fertilizers are used. They do not till the vineyard because of the potential for erosion.  A major problem with voles and gophers was solved by putting up owl boxes. They do everything they can to protect the ecosystem and were the ninth vineyard in Napa to receive the Fish Friendly Farming certificate from the Napa County Ag Commissioner, the Regional Water Quality Control Board and the National Marine Fisheries Service. 

Rose arbor

They do not source any fruit from other vineyards and do not have vineyards in other locations.  All of their wines come from the grapes they grow on their six and  a half acres and amounts to about 600 cases per year total. Although they grow mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, they also grow Bordeaux blend varietals they use in the Carrera Estate Blend and Estate Cabernet Sauvignon plus the grapes for their Sauvignon Blanc.

Large rose bush in bloom

In addition to the beautiful gardens and lovely wine caves which you will see during the tour, you will also have the pleasure of Doug Boeschen's charming company as he personally conducts the informal tour through this Shagri-La of a vineyard and will have the good fortune of tasting one or more of their wines in their tasting room on the upper level of the wine cave.

Double rose arbors

Prior to our visit, which, of course, is by reservation only, I read everything I could find about Boeschen Vineyards on the Internet.  They produce an Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc, a Cabernet Sauvignon  blend called the Carrera Estate Blend , an Estate Sauvignon Blanc and a Merlot based Rose called Katie Rose. None of these are available at restaurants or stores and often sell out completely to members of the Boeschen Vineyards wine club. Usually there are no wines available for purchase to the general public even when visiting the winery.  Given such demand, I was surprised that any wine at all was available for tasting.  Secretly I kept hoping that if we did taste some it might be the Estate Cab or Sauvignon Blanc.

Tasting room in wine cave

The wine we were able to sample was the Boeschen 2009 Carrera Estate Blend at $70, which is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Petit Verdot with the remainder being other Bordeaux blend varietals.  It sees about 60% French oak.  This is not one of those big, bold, tannic Napa Cabs that you will need to cellar away for a dozen years or more, nor is it the very ripe, fruit intense, highly extracted Napa Cab that Robert Parker seems to have made popular.  The Carrera starts out with a fantastic cherry aroma that is a total delight to the senses.  On the palate it is medium bodied with bright cherry and well integrated tannins and acid.  It is rather smooth and what is often referred to as "elegant" (an over used term.)  The finish is long and refreshingly clean.  I really enjoyed it.  Unfortunately we could not buy a bottle.

English style hedges & roses

All of their wines were sold out, and we would not have been able to taste anything if Doug hadn't put aside some of the Carrera just for visitors to taste.  We did get to hear a tantalizing story of how their Sauvignon Blanc came in first in a tasting, but we were not able to taste or purchase it.  Obviously Boeschen Vineyards does not need any more marketing or publicity, and it is extremely generous of the Boeschen family to put any wine aside for visitors to taste when there is such a high demand for it.

Unpainted end of wine cave

If you decide to visit this little Garden of Eden, you might want to do so in the early spring when their ancient Lady Banks rose is in bloom.  It seems to branch forever into the huge trees next to it. Or you might want to visit  later when all of the climbing roses draped over arches are in bloom.  Or you could go for the fall colors.   Our visit was magical and delightful and I'd love to return with my wife when the roses are in bloom.  Perhaps I'll even be fortunate enough to be able to taste their Sauvignon Blanc.

Boeschen Vineyards

3242 Silverado Trail

St. Helena, CA 94574

(707)963-3674

Date of visit: November 13, 2012

Silver Oak Cellars Revisited

Founded in 1972 on a former dairy farm, Silver Oak Cellars produces only Cabernet Sauvignon. They are located in Oakville on the Oakville Cross Road. Most of the main building was destroyed in a fire in 2006 and had to be rebuilt, although the old wooden tower still remains. It's a great place to visit for a tasting or tour. No appointment is required for the tasting alone.

Silver Oak Cellars tower

Silver Oak Cellars is famous for their Cabs with generous oak and are noted for using American oak instead of French. Frequently found in restaurants and stores, it is one of the most popular premium Cabs in the U.S.  They have a very devoted following, and I've always enjoyed their wines, but not everyone likes this style of Cab. The first case of wine I ever bought was in 1977 and was of the 1973 vintage of Silver Oak Cab. It had gone up from $6 from the first release of the 1972 vintage to $8 a bottle but was still a bargain even then. I have been visiting and buying their wines ever since but no longer by the case. This is a winery for serious cab lovers who like the Silver Oak style of Cab.

Silver Oak Cellars building

Our tasting began with the Silver Oak Cellars 2008 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at $70, which is 100% Cab.  It has an excellent aroma of vanilla and blackberries, mostly blackberry with some herbaceousness on the palate with good structure and grip, very nice tannins, along with a good finish. It seemed to me to be a classic Silver Oak presentation.  It is fine to drink now but should improve with cellaring.  Next was the Silver Oak Cellars 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, that is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc and sells for $100.  I got a lot of cherry and some cedar on the nose.  It was softer and smoother than the Alexander Valley, with very nice fruit, mostly cherry, on the palate. It is very drinkable now.  The final tasting was a Silver Oak Cellars 2003 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  After a bright cherry aroma, I got black cherry with some cedar and forest floor on the palate and a long finish.  I liked all three Cabs. My friend had a strong preference for the Anderson Valley one and purchased some.

Tasting room entry

Tasting bar

If you love Cabs and have not tasted a Silver Oak Cellars Cab, you really should.  If you are already familiar with their style of Cab and like it, then they will already be on your radar for a visit if you are in Napa Valley.  You may opt for just a tasting or a tour followed by a tasting.  I opted for a tour one time and enjoyed it but now just visit for tastings.

Tasting room wines

Silver Oak Cellars vineyard

Silver Oak Cellars

915 Oakville Cross Rd.

Oakville, CA 94562

(800)273-8809

Date of visit: November 7, 2012